1. Cut back on booze. Alcohol dehydrates tendons, and leaves them vulnerable and more susceptible to injury. Also, increase water intake. Even if you think you're getting enough, try to drink more.
2. Invest in a massager... A finger massager, a forearm massager, a foam roller, etc. I have all of the above, they work wonders.
3. Water water water. And food. Did I say drink more water? Something that's more of a recent additions to my current habits, is diet. We need food to live. Ceasing intake of food leads to muscle deterioration and, like with too much alcohol, tendons become susceptible to injury. The changes I've made have been just nutritional transitions. I still eat a TON of food. My body definitely feels the differences. Before I was all about Coca-Cola, Taco Bell, and In-N-Out. While I still enjoy these indulges, it's in far more moderation. I've kicked it up with the veggies and proteins, and toned it down a little with carbs. My favorites are salmon and asparagus, tuna and zucchini, and for grains it's brown rice or quinoa. When I do find myself in the In-N-Out drive-thru having no recollection of how I ended up there, I'll get my #2 animal style wrapped in lettuce instead of on a bun.
4. Muscle Work and Support. Whether you think it's a placebo effect or not, I'm a big fan of kinesiology tape. The Pro-Tec kinesiology tape is my favorite, and even if I feel just the start of a minor tweak, I tape. It reinforces the muscles at their insertion and origin points, and leads me to feel more confident in yarding on 'em. I also massage on a regular basis. After long approaches, it's a foam roller, and for the back and forearms, I'll lay on a massage ball, like the Orb.
5. Stretch. Yoga is something I do not excel at. I've been trying to do more of it, because as one of the tallest girls in the competitive climbing game, I find myself stuck in scrunchy positions pretty often, and the need to be more flexible is imperative. If I can't make it to 8:30am yoga with Liberty because it's too early for me, I'll sit on the floor and stretch while I watch The Walking Dead at night. Evening stretching is a good winding down process for me, with the stress of watching zombies and gore, I feel it really evens things out.
6. Strengthen. To be honest, my hangboard workout is more about strengthening to prevent injury than it is strengthening to send. I pulled a tendon in 2012 and the road to recovery was frustrating. Learning a new hangboard routine that wasn't about isolating fingers was a big discovery for me. Now it's an almost-daily part of my life. I never do less than three fingers at a time, whether it's front three, or back three, in multiple different positions and hold depth.
7. Recover. I rest A LOT. Some people may think I'm lazy, but obviously I know what I'm doing... haha. Seriously, though, if we push our bodies six days a week and only take one "active" rest day, it leaves us no chance for our muscles to rebuild. Climbing and working out is breaking the myofascia in the muscles down, and if they're not given proper time to heal, they can never get stronger. Even if you're skeptical of jumping on the Gnarly bandwheygon, that stuff works wonders for my recovery.
That's about all I have for you guys as far as my personal injury prevention/recovery goes. As always--totally feel free to write if you have questions! Seriously. Do it.