"Wahh-B-S" Nationals. A Potential Transition?

Yes, American Bouldering National Championships happened. Yes, I was there. As per usual. I was there physically. Mentally I'm still unsure as to whether or not I fully participated.

I'm going to attempt to keep this post (mostly) bitter-free. But in all honesty--When it comes to competitions, I feel like I'm running out of steam. Folks are getting stronger, working harder, numbers are growing. (All these are positives in our industry when it comes to accelerating the inertia of progression in our humble sport.)

Naturally, one must roll with the punches in order to keep up. So, last year I trained. Like, really trained. In my personal growth as a climber, I was the strongest I've ever been. It got me (woe is me, a disappointing) 4th place at the Vail Bouldering World Cup, one step off the podium, highest ranking American overall. And a monstrous hangover the next day, my ranking already forgotten by everyone save for myself and a few close friends/family members. There's that famous saying, "Pain is temporary, glory lasts forever." I think in the sport of climbing, and how unbelievably fast its progression has been, especially in the last few years, glory is mighty short-lived.

 

If I were to pose the question: "Who was the first woman to boulder V13? (And get dozens of coveted 'First Female Ascents' of pretty much any hard boulder in Colorado?)" A question, I believe, every boulderer should know the answer to, due to the weight of it being one small step for an Ange, one giant leap for womankind, do you think everyone would know? This achievement was monumental. It shattered the ceiling for girls to follow, and follow they have been! And some people still don't know who Angie Payne is! Ignorant fools! Blasphemy! She should be one of the most well-known climbers in the world.

 

Last week Chris did La Dura Dura, the HARDEST route in the WORLD, EVER! And peeps be all, "WO! Sick! Yea!...What's next?" And then there's a lull in the climbing community with everyone's rising expectations. Give us a break, people. Sometimes just climbing V10 is hard (gasp!).
Anyway, I'm just saying. Ondra's only Ondra until the next Ondra.

Back to the topic: 2013 Bouldering Nationals.
Route setting is getting, not much to my liking, weirder. Problems are getting funky and disorienting. It's not like back in the PCA days when climbs were set so the strongest person was winning comps. Due to comps getting "slabbier" or "more technical" or whatever, spectators have been disinterested. Part of the appeal of competitions in our sport is that it's supposed to be exciting and eye-pleasing. You (at least, I) want to watch a badass chick on a steep wall jump from a tiny crimp to a heinous pinch and hold the swing, muscles rippling; not shimmy-balance her way across a slab and into a dihedral only to have her foot slip off a pancake at the top. Of course, these are all just my opinions.

 

The one redeeming factor I took away from the comp was that, at one point, I was able to muster up something in order to try my absolute hardest in the middle of our coolest problem, Women's Finals Number 2 (or 3?). The one with all the big blue volumes, which we now use. But then I fell at the top. One could say I ran out of steam.

 

In regards to running out of steam: Currently, at this point in time I no longer feel motivated to try my hardest at competitions. I don't "want it." I'm not "fighting for it." I just want to rock climb outside.
Am I sounding bitter yet? Perhaps it's my head cold.

Allow me to summarize: Competitions are getting harder, and less fun (for me). I might be too burnt out to work as hard as I need to work to stay at the top of the game.

This could ultimately be unfortunate for me, as it seems climbing is on the cusp of blowing up.

I could wait out this funk, and, presumably, ride the coat tails of comp-climbing up the glorious ladder of glitz and glam.

Or I could fall (leap?) off the wagon now, and grow personally as a climber in outdoor aspects (something I am far from burnt out on) and take swelling pride in my own mini successes, not a random ranking from a passing event. If nobody but you remembers your "greatest achievements" anyway (see above), what's the point? Didn't we all get into rock climbing for its individuality to begin with?

P.S. This isn't quitting. This is a transition.

Paying it Forward: PCI Clinics

Climbing is evolving. Whether or not we choose to evolve with it is our own decision. The industry is growing, and with it, more people are entering our sport at a younger and younger age. The kids are getting stronger. It's a movement and we can either join or be left behind.

 

For the past two years I've been traveling the country teaching climbing clinics with Professional Climbers International (PCI). The organization sends pro climbers like myself, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Kevin Jorgeson, Sasha DiGiulian and Angie Payne, to name a few, around to host gyms so we can share our knowledge and passion for climbing with the younger generations.

Most of us have been doing this for fifteen-plus years. Obviously we don't know everything, but who would we be as professional athletes if we didn't give back to the generations to follow? Not only sharing the experience we've gained as it pertains to training, but movement and competition strategy as well.

When I was a kid my mom drove five hours so I could take a clinic in Chicago, Illinois with Tiffany Campbell. I don't remember a damn thing she taught me at that clinic. The only thing I remember is at the end of the day she said, "You have great potential."

 

My goal with these PCI clinics isn't necessarily to turn young athletes into world champions. What I want is each participant to take something even more important away from their time with me--a positive memory that they will carry with them for the rest of their lives. If not a single kid can recount my technique for heel hooks, or a pre-comp ritual I shared, but they leave with a smile and say they had a blast, then I've done my job. (Of course I want them to remember something! But I'll settle for a smile.)

We as professional athletes have been given a great opportunity to help shape the climbers of future generations, not only in ability but attitude as well. PCI clinics are a great medium for teaching, and a really fun chance for kids to not only learn from, but to just hang out and climb with their heroes.

I thoroughly enjoy working with kids. This is something I plan on continuing to do for as long as someone wants to learn from me, because honestly by teaching I learn just as much, if not more.

Luminance

Better late than never, right? Many thanks to everyone who came out that day. Couldn't have done it without you guys. There's great footage captured by Spenser Tang-Smith telling more of the story behind Luminance. It's much better than my gumby attempt at video editing, so you should check it out!

Across the Tracks

Honor Among Thieves

So many Yosemite photos and videos to post, but to get the ball rolling here's Kati Peters sending Honor Among Thieves, V9 at Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley! This is also my movie-making debut! :-)

My Second Greatest Purchase Ever (After Fritz)

It was Halloween night. Everywhere I looked the streets were filled with tiny kitties, cowgirls, and red Angrybirds perusing the neighborhood porches for candy.

Spotting the house number I was looking for, I pulled the van over, got out and headed for the front door, bracing myself in anticipation, worried that the zombie on the porch swing will frightfully spring to life. Peeking in the screen door before knocking I saw one bowl full of Capri Suns and another bowl full of rubber duckies. Original, I thought. I rapped my knuckles on the door.

"Hi, I'm Alex, I called about your Craigslist ad," I introduced myself as the door opened, just to clarify that I'm not here for a juice and a bath toy.

"Oh, right," the woman replied. She guided me to the backyard and there it was, in all its shiny polished glory. A toaster on wheels. My future home-away-from-home. A 1962 Red Dale Travel Trailer.

"My husband has completely refurbished the entire inside," the woman explained the new and improved features as she unlocked the trailer door.

What I stepped into was a 1950's diner themed room. I looked at the kitchen area, the red and white vinyl booth seats and stainless steel table, half expecting to see a milkshake waiting for me next to the Coca-Cola salt and pepper shakers.

The walls were painted white, the cabinets, stove and fridge all red. It was in mint condition, perfect working order. It was love at first sight.

I looked at the woman, beaming. "I'll take it!" I handed over an envelope full of bills and she handed me the title.

Driving off the property, trailer in tow behind van, I couldn't stop picturing how luxurious my future road trips were going to be from that moment on. No more cooking dinner outside in the cold and the dark by headlamp with frozen, numb fingers. Eating meals at a real table, not in the driver's seat. Lounge space that's warm and bright.

I hadn't been this excited about something I had purchased at this high a dollar amount since that June day in 2009 when I took a tiny Fritz puppy home with me.

So while everyone else was out trick-or-treating or going to costume parties, dressing (undressing?) like hoes on the one night a year where it's somehow socially acceptable, I was significantly upgrading my life.

AND I'M PSYCHED.

 

The Colorado Bouldering Season

The hot, hot heat of summer finally dissipated into the perfect temps of autumn. The Aspen leaves were glowing yellow around Colorado and the air was crisp in my lungs.

I had been in a bit of a lull since hurting my finger at the Vail World Cup in June, and although I was still able to climb, the recovery was slow. The fear of re-injuring my finger made me hesitant in my movements, and my motivation less than overwhelming.

And then it happened... One fine October day I went for my morning after-coffee experience and found the Yosemite guidebook sitting on the back of the throne. I felt a spark flicker deep inside me. Each page that turned was like oxygen to the flame, until I felt a burning so intense I knew I was getting my mojo back.
Or it could have just been the Taco Bell from the previous day's lunch.

Whatever the case, it was time for some damn rock climbing!
The plan was as much climbing outside as possible to get "outdoor fit" and develop some tough skin and a confident head for my Second Annual Trip to Yosemite Valley. The word "Yosemite" alone is enough to get anyone who calls themselves a climber excited.

Alas, the title of this blog is The Colorado Bouldering Season. I mean, yes, I'm unbelievably antsy to get out to the Valley, but until then, Rocky Mountain granite is the next best thing!

The Bischer Traverse V8 Poudre Canyon

Surfing The Tsunami V9 Poudre Canyon

Resonated V9 Eldorado Canyon

Beautiful day out climbing!

One Ton Ho V9 Poudre Canyon

The following sequence shots are on Mind Matters V11 in Guanella Pass

All Photos by Kelly McBride

 

Needless to say, it's been fun! Not pictured, but, I believe, worth mentioning, was the Girls' Day trip I went on with Angie Payne to Wild Basin where we both managed to, in quite literally opposite styles, take down a few V8's and V10's.

Taking the van all over climbing areas in Colorado has been a blast, and with the awesome bed I (by "I" I mean Kevin Cuckovich and Stephen Ogburn) made to go in the back, some of the trips have been overnight stays to get those few extra hours of climbing in. But while the van bed is extremely comfy and convenient, having to get out of the vehicle to brave the cold, crisp air to cook dinner by headlamp, or breakfast in the morning wind is becoming something I'd rather not grow more accustomed to.

Perhaps an even greater upgrade is in my near future...

All American Classics

Well I hurt my finger again. It felt amazing to get outside the few days that I did before getting hurt, and my motivation was soaring. Naturally I'm super bummed that I've taken a big step backwards in recovery progress, but thankfully it doesn't seem as bad as I initially thought. And more in the palm than the actual finger.

I'm taking a week off to "heal" as best as I can, (patience isn't one of my strongest character traits.) It's only been three days and I'm already desperate to start climbing again, and even get back on the bastard boulder that wrecked me.

I took six weeks off after Teva to recover, and it may not sound like a long time but my frustration in tweaking my hand again and having to take just a minimal one week off has been bumming me out. My hand had been feeling much better and I was starting to feel super strong again. I thought I was in the home stretch. This regression sucks.

In my sour mood I've been reminiscing about the best rock climbs I have done. I recall that Urban Climber Magazine did a "Top 100" countdown not too long ago, and although I probably couldn't rank a hundred problems, I've decided to pick one boulder of each difficulty grade I've done (in the United States), V0-V12, that stands out as a clear and dominant all-time-fave.

This was definitely not an easy task, as you will see many honorable mentions for many grades. Photos when I had them.

V0 A Birthing Experience, Bishop, CA

 Lisa Rands trying to exit the womb on A Birthing Experience

V1 Great White, Yosemite, CA

V2 The Angler, Joe's Valley, UT

Sasha Turrentine inching her way up The Angler

V3 Porkchop, Red Rocks, NV

Kati Peters on Porkchop

V4 Tendons Give, Yosemite, CA
Honorable Mentions: Jedi Mind Tricks, Bishop, CA

Taylor Nystrom fighting on Honorable Mention Jedi Mind Tricks

 
V5 Hammerhead, Yosemite, CA
Honorable Mentions: Kill by Numbers, Joe's Valley; Germ Free Adolescence, Eldorado Canyon, CO

Going for it ~with gusto!~ on Hammerhead

V6 Wills of Fire, Joe's Valley, UT
Honorable Mentions: Woodyard Arete, Yosemite, CA

Jes and Ian Dory sizing up Wills of Fire

V7 No Holds Bard, Yosemite, CA

V8 The Wind Below, Joe's Valley, UT
Honorable Mentions: King Cobra, Yosemite, CA; The Checkerboard, Bishop, CA

 Charlie Barrett high off the deck on The Wind Below

V9 The Tombstone, Yosemite, CA
Honorable Mentions: Heart of Darkness, Yosemite, CA; The Fall Guy, Bishop, CA

Kelly McBride on Honorable Mention The Fall Guy

V10 The Vortex, Boone, NC
Honorable Mentions: Drive On, Yosemite, CA; Thriller, Yosemite, CA; Whispers of Wisdom, RMNP, CO; Beyond Life, Joe's Valley, UT

The Vortex

V11 Haroun and the Sea of Stories, Bishop, CA
Honorable Mention: Stand and Deliver, Red Rocks, NV

 

Haroun and the Sea of Stories

V12  A Maze of Death, Bishop, CA
Honorable Mention: Book of Nightmares, Red Rocks, NV

Jeff Sillcox finding his way through A Maze of Death

There you have it folks; the ultimate classic ticklist countdown! Enjoy!

TRAINING: Not Being Left Behind

I'm in Colorado. I ended up in Boulder on April 16th with intentions to train for the Vail World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games. After spending the entire fall/winter/spring on the road having outdoor climbing adventures, I planned to begin with pure plastic on April 16th, giving me roughly seven weeks to get "comp fit." My training regiment for the month and a half was planned out entirely by Kris Peters, who spent three to seven hours a day, four to five days a week in the gym with me, motivating, pushing and instructing.

This was the first time I've ever trained like this.

In true honesty, and not to be taken arrogantly, for most of my climbing career I've managed to get by on pure talent. Somehow I've been able to win comps and climb hard boulders "off the couch," for lack of better words. But times are changing. People are getting stronger, working harder. There are more "super kids" being created every day. I was stalling out, getting stagnant. I came to the conclusion that talent alone wasn't cutting it anymore, I could no longer get by on just ability. If I didn't start training, adding a focused work ethic on top of my natural gift and passion, I was going to get left in the dust.

In the short amount of time I spent training with Kris in Boulder I became the strongest I'd ever been.

In the beginning of June I came in fourth at the Vail World Cup, and was the highest placing American competitor. I felt unbelievably fit, climbed very well, and although I was going for gold and couldn't help feeling just slightly disappointed, I felt like I did my very best.

After Vail I took six weeks off to give my body a break after pushing it harder than it's ever been pushed. I started up again with Kris about a week and a half ago, along with many others who have joined the ranks. Progression is imminent. I'm rock climbing outside a bunch this summer and fall, and secretly (not so secret anymore...) hoping for incredible things.

All photos by Kelly McBride