23 March 2014

The Best V9 I've Ever Done

What I meant was the five best V9's I've ever done. These are the climbs I can't stop thinking about. Personally, V9 is my favorite grade in bouldering. Firstly because I have a thing for odd numbers. Secondly, V9 is the level at which I can usually expect success, but have to try hard to achieve it. Not my limit, but challenging nonetheless. I believe I can go anywhere in the world and climb a V9. Except Fontainebleau, I couldn't climb shit there. I don't know, I just love V9's. They're the perfect grade. Anyway, here are my favorite V9's of all-time!!

1. "Luminance" Bishop, California
Huge, beautiful granite block sitting on the east side of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Beginning on an obvious start, overhanging with friendly holds, consistently difficult, tall, committing and exciting.

2. "Molunk" Brione Switzerland
Perfect granite edges spaced perfectly apart on gorgeous stone with a flat landing.

3. "Tilt Shift" Red Rocks, Nevada
A tall, free-standing boulder on a red and tan cliffside yielding sandstone rails with a physically challenging, technical intro section leading up to a foot-cutting dyno and a heady mantle.

4. "Heart of Darkness" Yosemite Valley, California
Three huge moves between Yosemite granite edges. (Climber: Dave Mason.)

5. "Nine Lives" Chattanooga, Tennessee
A long, power-endurance climb starting on a jug, moving through crimpy sandstone rails with a middle deadpoint and a casual top-out.

There you have it; my most beloved climbs at the V9 level. I'm open to suggestions of honorable mentions, I'm always looking to fatten up this list...

22 March 2014

The End

It looks like the season of #siegingtheswarm is over in Bishop. I'm watching the weather from Vegas and keeping my fingers crossed for a random cold front to roll through, but as of now I have emotionally checked out. It really wore on me to be so close to sending, and then gradually do worse and worse on it each day that went by. My assumption is that I was so focused on trying this one specific project that I got tunnel vision. I worked the same two moves over and over again for two months and didn't try anything else and it ultimately made me weaker. There were two days where I fell off after the crux; I was doing it! I should have sent! And every time after that I walked up there I felt pressured and anxious that I would blow it or feel off. I got in my own head and psyched myself out. No bueno! I've learned so much through this process. I'm going to have fun climbing again, enjoy living in Las Vegas, maybe train a little, and go back in the fall and give her hell.