tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-283567782712996342024-02-19T04:13:12.246-06:00On the RocksProfessional Climber Alex JohnsonAlex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.comBlogger68125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-42587710258865001342015-04-07T15:35:00.000-05:002015-04-23T15:03:39.478-05:00Fritz Tips? (Tip #3) Staying Healthy<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've been getting a lot of inquiries to write about finger strengthening tips and injury prevention. I've been lucky enough to slip through my career so far without having any detrimental injuries. Of course I can't speak medically, but I can definitely write about what I do to stay healthy/recoup, and hopefully that helps!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>1. Cut back on booze.</b> Alcohol dehydrates tendons, and leaves them vulnerable and more susceptible to injury. Also, increase water intake. Even if you think you're getting enough, try to drink more. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>2. Invest in a massager... </b>A finger massager, a forearm massager, a foam roller, etc. I have all of the above, and they work wonders.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>3. Water water water. And food. </b> Did I say drink more water? Something that's more of a recent additions to my current training habits is diet. We need food to live. Ceasing intake of food leads to muscle deterioration and, like with too much alcohol, tendons become weak and susceptible to injury. The changes I've made have been nutritional. I still eat a TON of food, but before I was all about Coca-Cola, Taco Bell, and In-N-Out. While I still enjoy indulging in these delicious things, it's in far more moderation. I've kicked it up with the veggies and proteins, and toned it down a little with carbs. My favorites are salmon and asparagus, tuna and zucchini, and for grains it's brown rice or quinoa. When I do find myself suddenly in the In-N-Out drive-thru line having no recollection of how I got up there, I'll get my #2 animal style wrapped in lettuce instead of on a bun.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>4. Muscle Work and Support.</b> Whether you think it's a placebo effect or not, I'm a big fan of kinesiology tape. <a href="http://www.pro-tecathletics.com/56977/648232/Upper-Leg--Back/Precut-Kinesiology-Tape.html" target="_blank">The Pro-Tec kinesiology tape</a> is my favorite, and even if I feel just the start of a minor muscle tweak, I tape. It reinforces the muscles at their insertion and origin points, and leads me to feel more confident in yarding on 'em. I also massage on a regular basis. After long approaches, it's a <a href="http://www.pro-tecathletics.com/57038/781390/Massage/Pro--Tec-Foam-Roller-4Dx12L-Travel-Size-Extra-Firm.html" target="_blank">foam roller</a>, and for the glutes and hammies, or I'll lay on a massage ball, like <a href="http://www.pro-tecathletics.com/57038/783190/Massage/The-Orb-Massage-Ball-5.html" target="_blank">the Orb</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>5. Stretch. </b>Yoga is something I do not excel at. Actually if I'm being completely honest, I absolutely suck at yoga. I've been trying to do more of it, because as one of the tallest girls in the competitive climbing game, I find myself stuck in scrunchy positions pretty often, and the need to be more flexible is imperative. If I can't make it to 8:30am yoga with Liberty because it's too early for me, I'll sit on the floor and stretch while I watch The Walking Dead at night. Evening stretching is a good winding down process for me, with the stress of watching zombies and gore, I feel it really evens things out.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>6. Strengthen.</b> To be honest, my hangboard workout is more about strengthening to prevent injury than it is strengthening to send. I pulled a tendon in 2012 and the road to recovery was frustrating. Learning a new hangboard routine that wasn't about isolating fingers, but about strengthening them as a whole, was a big discovery for me. Now it's an almost-daily part of my life. I never do less than three fingers at a time, whether it's front three, or back three, and I do multiple different positions and hold depth. I train open-handed and bent fingers (not full crimp with thumb on top), and it has helped me significantly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>7. Recover. </b>I rest A LOT. Some people may think I'm lazy, but obviously I know what I'm doing... haha. Seriously, though, if we push our bodies six days a week and only take one "active" rest day, it leaves us no chance for our muscles to rebuild. Climbing and working out break the myofascia in the muscles down, and if they're not given proper time to reconnect and heal, they can never get stronger. Also, even if you're skeptical of jumping on the <a href="http://gognarly.com/product/gnarly-whey/" target="_blank">Gnarly</a> band-whey-gon, that stuff works wonders for my recovery. A big ole chocolate whey shake after a brutal workout and the next day I don't feel like I got hit by a train.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That's about all I have for you guys as far as my personal injury prevention/recovery goes. As always--totally feel free to write if you have questions! Seriously, though, do it. I have all the answers.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-9772189672204475262015-04-02T20:12:00.000-05:002015-04-02T20:12:07.481-05:00Tokyo Ramblings<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I mean, I spent most of my time in Japan climbing. Indoor, outdoor. This is but a tiny blurb from my time over there. It was an interesting time, climbing-wise. I'd been to Japan before, and absolutely loved it. This time I had the surprise pleasure of seeing an old friend, Yumi, from my first trip in 2008. This trip I was climbing with The Legend Yuji Hirayama, Akiyo Noguchi, Sachi Amma, Alex Megos, and Toru Nakajima.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing in Japan with Akiyo has given me the opportunity to get to know her as a person, and not as a competitor I only see occasionally at World Cups. We went training together and climbing outside together, and it hasn't felt the least bit competitive, as it sometimes, even often does with other [professional] female climbers. (Not just professional... But this is an entirely different topic.)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">My perception of Akiyo is that she doesn't want to beat me personally; she isn't trying to be "the best." Obviously in competitions, that's a different story. But here, I honestly don't think she could care less about me even being around. (From a climbing standpoint. It was awesome spending time together as normal humans!)</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">Akiyo truly just wants to get to the top. Of everything. When she pulls on, she's a machine; effective, focused, calculated. Her efforts are inspiring, she tries harder than almost anyone I've ever seen. If she falls, I can tell she's already focused on her next attempt, at trying even harder. Which is insane, because I was sure she'd just expunged every ounce of effort she had...</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">That's personally what I find the most impressive. That someone can constantly be giving 110%. Sometimes I honestly think it's something I might be incapable of. Trying hard every single move, every single attempt? That sounds exhausting, and more in the mental sense than the physical. Magical things happen when I try hard, like this year's ABS Nationals for example. But truthfully, my climbing style has never called for all-out effort. I'm flowy, and dynamic, and I choose climbs that cater to that style. I pick moves that don't always call for a lot of tension, because I know it's a weakness. Basically I'm not that strong, but the act of climbing is easy for me; it always has been. And trying hard is hard. The more I climb outside, the more I realize how important body tension is. It takes a multitude of effort to make the body work like that when it isn't used to it. And mine really isn't used to it.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This year I've agreed to compete at Toronto and Vail again, and climbing and training with Akiyo and Megos over my two weeks in Japan has inspired me. They make me want to work hard. Akiyo was flashing things I was projecting, cruising things I couldn't get off the ground of. I'm not sure if it was circumstantial; jet lag, off week, etc. Or if she's currently exceptionally fit. I question how I was ever competitive with Akiyo physically; how I've ever been able to beat her. She's a beast! Albeit the entire time I was in Japan I felt tired, and eventually spent my final week battling a cold, even on an on day, I don't know that I could keep up. I obviously have my work cut out for me this spring if I want to hang with the World Cup big dawgs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The climbing over there was a bit hard to get used to. Yuji's The North Face Cup was fun, and the problems varied between physically burly, and having technically finesse. I apparently totally underestimated the strength of the women's field over here and didn't even make finals, which was a bit disappointing. By "a bit" I mean quite. I tried to try hard. I wanted to put on a good show and really didn't want to let Yuji down, but especially I know these things happen. After the event we went on a "Rock Tour" and even the outside climbing felt a bit strange to me. Maybe climbing solely on sandstone for the last year left me completely worthless on having to deal with granite. That shit is slippery. And sharp!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">Yes, I found the climbing in Japan difficult, and the grades stiffer than an appropriate metaphor. (Retrospectively, I think I had a similar experience on rock in 2008 as well.) I had a hard time convincing my body to engage, and, truth be told, the hardest thing I did the entire trip was approximately V7, while Akiyo was climbing everything in her path, including this rad little V12 in only four goes. She wanted to climb and project things with me and I felt bad and ashamed that I physically couldn't work on the same climbs as her. We did end up eventually climbing this fun little riverside V6 together, so that was cool. She was super positive and motivating, and it was nice to have a boulder to ourselves with such a big crew on the Rock Tour.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I can't help but imagine the things that must have been going through her mind watching me struggle on V8's, hell even V5's. "This chick won World Cups and climbed </span><i style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Mandala</i><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">??" Yes, Akiyo, I swear! I think I'm good at rock climbing..? Didn't I just do The Swoop? Why does this always seem to happen to me more than everyone else? Am I sounding whiney enough yet? Newsflash: rock climbing is hard. Sometimes it just is, and we don't know why. As I mentioned before, it's always been a natural thing for me, and not being the best is quite the blow to the ego. It's only the last few years I've found I've really needed to step up my game. This trip to Japan was another eye-opener to me, to just that fact. I am definitely not complacent with mediocre.</span></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-91509525812965003022015-03-08T20:43:00.001-05:002015-03-08T20:43:55.437-05:00No Ragrets<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I just found this little gem of a journal entry in my phone from January 23rd. Oldie but goodie?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"I recently watched this funny movie called "We Are The Millers." There's a scene in which a baby thug gets punched out by Jennifer Aniston, but not before being questioned about his chest tattoo: NO RAGRETS.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"No regrets? None? Not even a letter?"</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyway, you ever have those moments? The palm-to-forehead, how-did-I-ever-get-this-far-in-life ones? Yeah, me either. Peasants...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you were thinking this was going to be some super deep "live life to the fullest" post, I'm sorry. This is about the epic four hour journey from Las Vegas to Bishop. And if you're thinking that there's no way a teeny tiny little four hour road trip could ever be epic, think again! I'm about to prove you wrong.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This drive is usually a piece of cake. I've probably done it thirty times; it's brainless. Sometimes I'm brainless. This time for some reason, I neglected to gas up in Beatty, Nevada, the halfway point. Which would have been fine, were I not towing the trailer...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Turning onto highway 266 we had roughly 95 miles of gas left in range, and 85 to Bishop. Which again, would have been aside from the (adorable) twelve-foot ball and chain I was dragging up winding mountain passes. The strategy was neutral on the downhills and low RPM's on the up. But then, a miracle! 'Next gas 58 miles.' I could crush that, even with the extra weight.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Except 58 miles came and went, and we saw nothing but Joshua trees. Twenty-seven more miles to the Shell in Big Pine, and my range read twenty. Still manageable, I thought, as we crawled up to a 7,300 foot summit at 15 miles per hour, guzzling away, blasting 90's pop songs and singing along for a half-assed distraction that honestly wasn't really working. That boiling hot stress knot you get in your upper shoulder area was making a screaming appearance.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Time came to make a decision with 13 reading on the range and 26 miles to go. When Effie said, "May the odds be ever in your favor," in The Hunger Games she obviously never had to tow a 1200 pound trailer uphill twice as far as the gas tank would allow. My odds sucked.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I sit here now, writing this as my car thirstily gulps regular unleaded. My trailer sits on the side of the road 26 miles back on Highway 266.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We coasted down into Big Pine in neutral for the last seven miles, with the range at zero. It's 10pm, and I have to drive half an hour back the way I came from, collect my home away from home, and then carry on up to Bishop. And I feel like a f***ing idiot. It's experiences like this that make up our life stories, right..?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Let me slap an "AJ Tip" to the end of this: When you have the opportunity to get gas right before driving off into no man's land--GET IT."</span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-33086021947622088812015-03-02T19:32:00.002-06:002015-03-02T19:35:00.883-06:00The Swoop Project<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wow. What a crazy process. No wonder Woods and Beal named the Grandpa Peabody Proj "The Process." That's exactly what it is.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was initially dragged down there to try a classic V5 to the right called "<i>Tiger Lily</i>." When I say dragged, I mean almost literally; it takes a lot to convince me to climb something of moderate difficulty. And I hate classics...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><i>Tiger Lily</i>, V5</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Kidding.) <i>Tiger Lily</i> is awesome! So awesome I had to do it twice. We'd heard from </span><a href="http://www.snellpress.com/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Southern Nevada Guidebook</a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> author, Tom Moulin that the arete left of <i>Tiger Lily</i> hadn't been climbed, and while taking a peek at that impossible-looking thing, I noticed that there were very obvious, perfect holds, spaced perfectly apart, on the black and orange striped face left of the arete. It looked stunning immediately; an obvious line, albeit the landing would be horrifying. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The entire boulder sits up on this pedestal, and the landing zone for the Swoop Project was right where the pedestal ended and droped off, while also featuring an giant obtusely-shaped boulder (sharp end up, of course) smack in the middle of the drop off.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The line was dubbed the Swoop Project for multiple reasons, the first being that the crux was a sort-of 'arm pogo' dynamic jump move off a left hand crimp to a slopey rail. I would drop my right arm, and violently swing it upwards trying to gain a little extra momentum on take-off.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reason number two, was that every time I went out of town (which was a lot over the last few weeks) my friend Seth would text me and tell me he was going to go swoop my project if I didn't hurry up and come home.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Of course I have a list as long as a grocery receipt of potential names for new climbs, but I'm so particular, I want a name to fit perfectly with a boulder, especially if it's a decent line. (If you know me personally, you know I'm particular about much more than just this...) As soon as it became known as "The Swoop Project" it was basically over. After I did it, I tried thinking about calling it something else, even saying names out loud. Ultimately I just kept referring to it as <i>The Swoop</i>, and so did everyone else, so the name just stuck. Now I'm pretty fond of it.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">As I mentioned above, t's a really interesting process doing a first ascent. I've said before, <i>Critically Acclaimed</i> was spoon fed to me, and I have the utmost appreciation for that. But this was different; it was so personal. I've been joking that I 'raised it from an egg,' but that's exactly how it feels! It was like I created art. Or something. I created something. It's all very hard to explain, and fills me with overwhelming pride, and biased feelings, haha.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">I felt an immediate connection to this line. It grabbed me and inspired me right away, regardless of presumed difficulty. I was driven by it; every time I would leave town, I couldn't stop thinking about returning to Vegas, trudging back down into that canyon, and trying again.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">I had no idea how hard this thing was going to be. All I thought when I saw it was, "wow, I bet that goes!" I wanted to do it even if it ended up being V5; in the most cliche'd meaning possible, it just looked cool. I'm still not sure how difficult it actually is. I've been trying to compare it to other similar climbs in the area, taking into consideration the amount it took me to climb them and <i>The Swoop</i> comparatively, and taking into account size and style.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDaOkGtSxya3DkSwQGO8Oop1rRrfnv3NFq45HiUd2gzMRf_fYv4YKpXVitWUdDgeC7P60Y-Y32p9KwVV8y6XrHVG2iZEqOElsCnKBmI7ti3FhyphenhyphenTKpGdSnArp9CQLW_2iIOcs_EjzouXI/s1600/AJ+Wide+Jump.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDaOkGtSxya3DkSwQGO8Oop1rRrfnv3NFq45HiUd2gzMRf_fYv4YKpXVitWUdDgeC7P60Y-Y32p9KwVV8y6XrHVG2iZEqOElsCnKBmI7ti3FhyphenhyphenTKpGdSnArp9CQLW_2iIOcs_EjzouXI/s1600/AJ+Wide+Jump.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photo: Max Moore</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">This problem is going to feel significantly harder if: you're short, not dynamic, not strong on crimps, contact strength is a weakness, etc.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">It will feel significantly easier if: you're taller, good at jumping, have strong fingers, and especially all of the above.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">Would this warrant downgrading? Probably not. I'm trying to consider the general climbing population, and base the grade off the average, not the select with the aforementioned advantages, who probably don't even know what V10 feels like anymore. Besides, this is just a suggestion.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The thing about doing something first, is that even if it to turns out to be easy, you really have no idea at first if it's even possible. No one has done it before you. You're the pioneer, the person who makes it </span><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">possible</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. That's a crazy feeling. I can't even imagine how Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin felt.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">Every failed attempt I was thinking, "Man, does it go?? I have no idea!" As soon as someone has done it, you know it can be done, but until that point it's all a mystery. And to be the person who unlocks it, the person who says, "Yes, this IS possible." That's awesome.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/DBJPHOTO" target="_blank">David Beaver</a></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-80658356486227196902014-11-11T20:29:00.003-06:002014-11-11T20:29:53.377-06:00AJ Tip #2<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Is it time for another AJ Tip? I have yet to come up with a cleverer name... Trendy Tips. Top Notch Tips. Terrific Tips! (I'm biased.) ...I'm open for suggestions. Please!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyway, I've had another random thought I'd like to share with the class. This one benefits not only the lives and ankles of everyone reading this, but also me if I happen to make your acquaintance out at the boulders.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am that super anal control-freak that will walk up to a boulder, no matter who's on it or whose gear is underneath it, and start rearranging crash pads. Yup. And guess what--you'll have to deal with it. Because if I'm going to climb on something, I want there to be as little risk of injury as possible. Um... Shouldn't we all feel that way???</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I can't count the times I've walked up to a climb in horror, totally shocked that anyone is even still standing by the looks of the pad placements. Foam just thrown down randomly, gaps, holes, uneven surfaces. Why, people?? Why risk cutting your road trip short because you rolled your ankle on the edge of a mat?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the love of your ankles, here is my method to making a baller landing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. <b>Be a perfectionist.</b> Even if your buddies have to wait an extra 45 seconds before they can jump on their proj, they'll thank you later. Or they won't, but your conscience will be clear.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGCAARFYfrS_o9k1wHdaEVr8_h6RuxUfL_Pup-8yAi2TcB1WHioXyWcVATyrWMvQTRI31KUseY1lj33U_LPeuQCIzkUQTFkQI_IRNFvCRJiYosy0idDCFCRa9POzIrWRX_AS4SLymEqE/s1600/10406573_781377831896496_2237133583829003375_n.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGCAARFYfrS_o9k1wHdaEVr8_h6RuxUfL_Pup-8yAi2TcB1WHioXyWcVATyrWMvQTRI31KUseY1lj33U_LPeuQCIzkUQTFkQI_IRNFvCRJiYosy0idDCFCRa9POzIrWRX_AS4SLymEqE/s320/10406573_781377831896496_2237133583829003375_n.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. <b>Close all the gaps. </b>Connect all the edges. Creating a solid landing zone is like putting a really big puzzle together. Find the best way all that your pieces fit while covering the most ground.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. <b>Invest in a seam sealer. </b>Slider, Bubbler, whatever they call it, get one. A thing flat piece of foam to lay over the cracks that eat and spit out broken ankles.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4lQSklbh6bDa7XNxqF2-xR-pKeoGkfLqiQXaHo5hLWT0Ij-hiDdxxi6Untf74rdkochDNUS_6ymyzFows5hx5vNP4ZQ3HjuwXXTvx-steqp0G21BxawkcyeqRqmrA5qba0vr2v7FyFU/s1600/IMG_5428.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4lQSklbh6bDa7XNxqF2-xR-pKeoGkfLqiQXaHo5hLWT0Ij-hiDdxxi6Untf74rdkochDNUS_6ymyzFows5hx5vNP4ZQ3HjuwXXTvx-steqp0G21BxawkcyeqRqmrA5qba0vr2v7FyFU/s320/IMG_5428.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4. </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have an even surface. </b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you have enough foam to build a two-layer landing, RAD. If not, try to keep the surface as flat and even as possible. This could mean keeping a folded pad underneath an opened pad if there's a ledge, drop off, or bulging rock in the way. Also if your base covers a large area, but you have a larger pad for a second layer, put it right in the prospected fall zone. Try to avoid having a double-layered edge at all costs.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYWjrCAMWB-TIkcDqvl8NFSdZBD-U-0IuK_b7aOQp9-rW6KV3re-7pAOOn3V9AnVAREegI6JrTnF8FG9eNHCkr3Quxv6wfN8SKKZXqRFZuxLcb2e8CZtq1lKQbJuVF-Rm-75VYE0seiE/s1600/10689681_855480954486183_2228557979772947519_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYWjrCAMWB-TIkcDqvl8NFSdZBD-U-0IuK_b7aOQp9-rW6KV3re-7pAOOn3V9AnVAREegI6JrTnF8FG9eNHCkr3Quxv6wfN8SKKZXqRFZuxLcb2e8CZtq1lKQbJuVF-Rm-75VYE0seiE/s320/10689681_855480954486183_2228557979772947519_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5. </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Constantly Re-Evaluate.</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> The job is never over. Each time someone falls, things shift and move around, especially if you're on a hill. Keep pushing the pads together to close the gaps, rearrange your seam sealers, hide the buckles because those hurt to land on, too.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There you have it. I just saved all your ankles, and hundreds of dollars in hospital bills, and months of rehab. Go and be safe!!</span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-26319179363046340532014-09-05T21:16:00.004-05:002014-09-08T15:37:42.328-05:00AJ Tips! #1<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm starting a thing! It's called "AJ Tips." But I'll probably change the name to something a little more creative, but for right now bear with the dumb name.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"AJ Tips/Other Cooler Name" will feature a random helpful climbing tip at random inconsistent times, whenever I think of a good one! Their purpose is to be helpful and insightful to new climbers, and experienced climbers trying to break out of a plateau. It'll be a smorgasbord of info. You'll just want to eat it up.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My first "AJ Tip" is one that I've been sitting on for months, saying over and over to people in person, and trying to think of a way to get this absolutely <i>crucial</i> info out there, and then holy crap! I remembered I have a blog.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So here it is:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">NEW and YOUTH CLIMBERS SHOULD BE CLIMBING IN <b>SOFT SHOES</b>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You're never going to learn to 'trust your rubber' or pull with your toes if your shoes are so stiff you can't even feel what you're standing on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Even if the dude at the RockShop is trying to sell you stiff shoes, PLEASE listen to me, seriously!! I have been doing this for almost twenty years... You do NOT need that support right now! You NEED to be able to feel your footholds!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually if you graduate to hard slabs or long multi-pitch routes stiff shoes will come in handy, fo-sho.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But if you're a brand new boulderer or sport climber or a kiddo, soft shoes are key. I've literally given my softer shoes away to new climbers who were climbing in bricks and struggling with footwork. They saw a difference immediately.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now that you're figuratively wealthy with all this knowledge, a good, affordable soft shoe to start in is the <a href="http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/climbing-shoes/addict/" target="_blank">Evolv Addict</a>, just 99 bucks. But this isn't an advertisement, seriously, just get into some soft shoes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photo from the Instagram of young <a href="http://instagram.com/sara_griffith_?modal=true" target="_blank">Sara Griffith</a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-41036799332679058302014-08-13T14:47:00.001-05:002014-08-14T15:26:34.171-05:00Why Psicocomp is the Best Competitive Climbing Event in North America<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>1. My Friends Are There! </b>Did I say "friends"? I meant the most badass pro climbers in the game today, all in one place. Heck yes it's a good time!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Epic Climber Girl Selfie!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photo by Christine Bailey Speed</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>2. The Robes</b>. We look like boxers walking up to the ring! Or in this case the wall. It unifies us and makes us feel like ballers. It's great to have something warm, dry, and easy to put on right after climbing out of the pool.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Emily Harrington watches while staying toasty warm. Photo by Susanica Tam.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>3. The Hot Tub.</b> Need I explain? Ok, fine. Climbing 5.13 is hard by itself. We get winded, then fall or jump into a cold pool, and have to swim in climbing shoes--which is NOT easy--to the side of the pool, and crawl out into the cool mountain air. Is there anything better than dipping into a hot tub to catch your breath? Nope.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photo Scott Hallenberg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">An Angie Payne original</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>4. The Venue.</b> Outdoor arena, easy viewing, with stadium and hill-side seating. Thousands of spectators can pack into this place, and even the people way back on top of the hill can see the action. It's perfect.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcE4TTOU_ZbGCrdK3DLmrX3lh0sXRkQU1qc8jCas35_gKBQ3_oAHMbewkkQDH-mL31N16uNTFjWEtX0HIYjlbj3QNUwLPB5dV9Lh3ig2qW88VJeHuh1tbcJKUEPGdiW7sRZIBA3jEpuM/s1600/venue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcE4TTOU_ZbGCrdK3DLmrX3lh0sXRkQU1qc8jCas35_gKBQ3_oAHMbewkkQDH-mL31N16uNTFjWEtX0HIYjlbj3QNUwLPB5dV9Lh3ig2qW88VJeHuh1tbcJKUEPGdiW7sRZIBA3jEpuM/s1600/venue.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photos by Alton Richardson for <i>Climbing Mag</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtuEs103H6HNsenFySAgZbFegznw8gvVrQn4iwuVgHGd0ZpbpqBh5nPn3pDCtg5H5igjE7ciradbcvSUTUfPUfEQOMOJ7wd2okE0RTjek2iQQ2qYmaRJMJvPib2ey3XAu6svpsi0jdC0/s1600/blog-psicobloc-222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtuEs103H6HNsenFySAgZbFegznw8gvVrQn4iwuVgHGd0ZpbpqBh5nPn3pDCtg5H5igjE7ciradbcvSUTUfPUfEQOMOJ7wd2okE0RTjek2iQQ2qYmaRJMJvPib2ey3XAu6svpsi0jdC0/s1600/blog-psicobloc-222.jpg" height="137" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow Expeditions</span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">5. Format.</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> Head-to-Head, bracket format. Just like middle school basketball. You lose you're out. While I got knocked out due to this format, it's comprehensible to the non-climber. It's fast-paced. As a competitive climber even I think watching climbing is boring. Two climbers racing head-to-head up a tall, powerful, dynamic route and falling into a pool? Now that's exciting! Great recap video from Park City TV here! --> </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_S2AqaJP1A&app=desktop" style="text-align: justify;">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_S2AqaJP1A&app=desktop</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Scott Hallenberg Photo</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>6. Extreme Factor.</b> Hello, see above. We fall 50 feet into a POOL.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjShk3EaXQdEhw_CV3NOq8k8ahZ1FlrVvJ_MMv5q1SaSLcMoH_3scFZ1WqV8_BSjus-zeUpqT4OHyNqw6qkU7LMsE_ecDeHOC0kQbGu9yRi0-oioYeLl9Q-ZuMxYiDGaG4JIg3tF2WSP6w/s1600/10565171_274265579424402_795579008919830050_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjShk3EaXQdEhw_CV3NOq8k8ahZ1FlrVvJ_MMv5q1SaSLcMoH_3scFZ1WqV8_BSjus-zeUpqT4OHyNqw6qkU7LMsE_ecDeHOC0kQbGu9yRi0-oioYeLl9Q-ZuMxYiDGaG4JIg3tF2WSP6w/s1600/10565171_274265579424402_795579008919830050_n.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Jake Bodkin Photo</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>7. Images.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Beau Kahler Photography from last year's event. Still the best Psicocomp image to date.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>8. The Livestream</b>. Couldn't make it to the event? Thanks to <a href="http://lt11.com/" target="_blank">Louder Than Eleven</a> you can watch it live online! Made it to the event but got thirsty and went out to the beer tent? No worries, there are TVs in the Sponsor Village showing the live footage.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI4XwheXwL0fRxZIL4cCbI7z3aq-feSzsi-OKt0dzHNWa3u5kHX2tF6gh0v9ZzKnsH71hhrn6ZYj-f4KHXOK1hqplMxUII-gO8GG1zNVEHBiqUoRhyphenhyphenOgNMHOnv9onFBX0iZxPyC4iKipw/s1600/IMG_2547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI4XwheXwL0fRxZIL4cCbI7z3aq-feSzsi-OKt0dzHNWa3u5kHX2tF6gh0v9ZzKnsH71hhrn6ZYj-f4KHXOK1hqplMxUII-gO8GG1zNVEHBiqUoRhyphenhyphenOgNMHOnv9onFBX0iZxPyC4iKipw/s1600/IMG_2547.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photo Aicacia Young</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>9. Meet the Pros/Poster Signings. </b>Every kid's dream is to meet Chris Sharma. Every dude's dream is to meet Sasha DiGiulian. For an hour before the event you can get a poster from your favorite athletes and snap a pic with them before they get soggy.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">10. The Wall is Open to the Public. </b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That didn't look hard to you? Go try it yourself. $20 bucks.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMX3SAZKDO08uppxpUSn09ZGMHUMmdzXRZYmAZXVEiaCIGeXgk7Cl8YvJQbbRwaEI2Cz8t2v-vCJNcmKU9hPHJhQoLnezSmRyMCCFruplXZyNPREvkh4ImsTVTtFEmX9OdTsALXuJIYnA/s1600/IMG_7600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMX3SAZKDO08uppxpUSn09ZGMHUMmdzXRZYmAZXVEiaCIGeXgk7Cl8YvJQbbRwaEI2Cz8t2v-vCJNcmKU9hPHJhQoLnezSmRyMCCFruplXZyNPREvkh4ImsTVTtFEmX9OdTsALXuJIYnA/s1600/IMG_7600.JPG" height="318" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Andrew Commander taking one for the citizens of Park City.</span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">11. The Event Raised Over $10,000 for the Kuhmbu Climbing Center.</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Bet you didn't know that.</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.alpenglowexpeditions.com/blog/psicobloc-sherpa-and-north-side-everest">http://www.alpenglowexpeditions.com/blog/psicobloc-sherpa-and-north-side-everest</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And there you have it, folks. Why I think the Psicocomp is the best climbing showcase event in North America.</span></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-12557244087563936272014-07-27T13:21:00.002-05:002014-07-28T16:36:54.732-05:00The Ever-Overly Discussed Topic of Grades<div style="font-family: Helvetica;">
Since the dawn of time, grades in climbing have always been a hot topic, and that, I expect, will never change. In your personal assessment of ability, they’re a great way to scale where you’re at and where you want to be. It’s always exciting to reach or exceed a certain benchmark, and feel accomplished.</div>
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I cannot express how intensely I feel that, although they are completely necessary, grades in climbing should be more personal. I most certainly am not saying that they shouldn’t hold as much weight as they do, because obviously they’re important in the growth of not only the sport, but the climber themselves, and seeing progression in any one climber in our sport is motivating.</div>
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But we take grades too seriously. I’m just as guilty as the next person. My desire is that we look at them a little more subjectively.</div>
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In this situation, for example, I’m thinking specifically of a great line in Red Rocks called <i>Lethal Design</i>.</div>
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I climbed <i>Lethal Design</i> back in 2012, and was awarded the coveted "first female ascent." Being that it was a relatively new climb when I did it, although it had been established for a while it didn’t seem to get much traffic, perhaps a consensus on the grade hadn’t yet been established. Since then a handful of girls and women have done it, and there have been murmurs of “soft” and “downgrade.” Seeing that it got a bunch of traffic this past fall and winter, and expecting it will see even more traffic this coming fall and winter, I’d like to point out my thoughts on this climb specifically, while hopefully simultaneously covering most climbs in general.</div>
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The grade of a climb, in my opinion, is what you think it should be, based on your previous climbing experiences and style, your specific strengths and weaknesses. (If you're a great crimper, you will excel on crimp lines. That doesn't mean that they are "easier.") Although there is frequently a standard grade that goes along with any given climb, someone’s opinion on that grade could vary drastically. I still whole-heartedly agree that climbs need a consensus grade, but to what strict extent? I don’t agree with the trend of one person suggesting a downgrade, and everyone else immediately following suit, even, and especially, those who had previously done the climb and taken the initial grade it was given. “Oh, yes, it must be soft now, given that so-and-so thinks so.” Could it not be that people are just getting stronger?? Climbing is growing and the more people who participate the more mutant Chris and Daniels we’re going to have. Twenty years ago nobody could fathom 5.15a, and now look we’re up to 5.15c!!! And V16? Fred Nicole would have laughed in your face if you’d proposed such a preposterous number. Open your eyes. Climbs aren’t getting easier. We are getting stronger! Remember when V12 was the new V10? Well V14 is the new V12. For guys AND girls it seems.</div>
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I only implore everyone to be honest with themselves on what they think in their heart the grade of a climb could be. Whether it’s “soft,” “standard,” or “hard.” Or downgraded or upgraded. I’m also curious as to when upgrading became so shameful? There have been quite a few climbs I would've liked to upgrade, only to have been "guilted," so-to-speak, into conforming to the downgrading craze, for fear of being publicly scrutinized. It's happened before, trust me. </div>
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Anyway, back to <i>Lethal</i>. My long-standing stance on grades in general has been that I don't understand them. I've often said that if I had to wipe the numbers clean my "hardest" sends (<i>Clear Blue Skies</i> V12, <i>A Maze of Death</i> V12) would no longer be at the top. But again--this is about Lethal. Like I said, this climb couldn’t have been more my style, so naturally I did it a little faster than other ascents around difficulty. Now foreigners have done it, dudes have flashed it, and like clockwork, the murmur of The Downgrade commences. I believe that this instance purely comes down to style. Perhaps, since the holds are thin and the line is crimpy, it is indeed suited for female hands. That doesn’t mean that the movements aren’t difficult or make the line itself easier. Just style-dependent.</div>
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Take, for another example, <i>Lethal</i>’s sister line on the boulder, <i>Book of Nightmares</i>, just thirty-odd feet to the right, to date, the hardest thing I’ve ever done. Thuggy and powerful, but also finicky and technical, this climb to me couldn’t be more V12. Yet quite a few logged ascents online call it “soft” or V11. Get ready for the big reveal: These comments mean absolutely NOTHING to me. I no longer bow to the downgrading kings. <i>Book of Nightmares</i> is the hardest thing I’ve ever climbed and to me it’s the difficulty of V12. <i>Lethal Design</i> is the hardest thing someone else has ever climbed, and to them it’s V12. While on the same difficulty plane, they could not be more different. (This could all be solved by over-complicating the grading scale by adding styles into the mix; Crimpy V12, Compression V12, Roof V12, Dyno V12, etc., but who wants to deal with all of that?!)</div>
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Anyway, all I’m saying is that next time you feel like following the cool-kid crowd by jumping on the downgrading bandwagon, consider what you truly think the grade of that climb really is, based on your style and experiences, not just because everyone else is doing it. Also think about if it’s really that important to take it from a “V12a” to a "V11d." Because to someone, that line could be the hardest thing they’ve ever done, and they could have worked their ass off for it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_y3LSwkr5hmVsyaoUzQMbZniHMxUiw2Lf0R_K8_fCvFOHZmggvPyTml_EFQ6VlomuyLc48Y3Vlghpyfc8oK2azlEd_eAQv61PXjJAdMV_ltXapJu7c1XdAv18ZErQYNJDINv1kC2aSs/s1600/lethal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_y3LSwkr5hmVsyaoUzQMbZniHMxUiw2Lf0R_K8_fCvFOHZmggvPyTml_EFQ6VlomuyLc48Y3Vlghpyfc8oK2azlEd_eAQv61PXjJAdMV_ltXapJu7c1XdAv18ZErQYNJDINv1kC2aSs/s1600/lethal.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Lethal Design</i> in Red Rock Canyon. Photo by Ben Spannuth.</span></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-73547187105939522682014-06-29T02:10:00.002-05:002014-06-29T13:15:48.783-05:00Just Another Post About Fear<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I know this isn't an original topic. It's actually a very popular one, having been written about before, numerous times. <a href="http://www.emilyaharrington.com/blog/2014/1/30/fear-of-falling-failing-and-other-things"><span class="s1">Emily Harrington</span></a> and <a href="http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/2013/10/el-miedo-de-caer/"><span class="s1">Shauna Coxsey</span></a> have both tackled it, as did <a href="http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/fear-for-all/"><span class="s1">Steph Davis</span></a>. Now I'm giving it a shot. Bear with me in the beginning here, I'm just making a comparison.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Every time Fritz moves in her bed in the middle of the night I bolt upright, heart racing, reaching for the baseball bat, or the pepper spray, recent purchases of course, thinking that someone has broken in--again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's gripping and controlling. As soon as the sun goes down the inside of my apartment is lit up like a Christmas tree, but still I don't sleep through the night. They did it once, they could do it again, so easily. All it takes is a fire extinguisher through the window and they can walk through my house as they please.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I can't move out; I signed a lease. But what happens if they come again? Would I hide? Where, under my bed? Please. Fritz barks like a damn rabid raccoon at the most subtle of sounds, she'd give us away in a heartbeat. Nope, I've decided to stay and defend my home. It's events like this that make you realize your fight or flight tendencies. In this circumstance it looks like fight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Why is it not the same for sport climbing??</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm up on my second climb of the day, still in the "warming up" process, and I'm getting a little pumped. Do I take? Or make another move, proverbial fingers crossed the next hold is good enough and my foot doesn't slip. What if the next hold sucks? What if my foot slips? I could fall weird, get my leg stuck behind the rope, twist around and hit my back or my head, or slam into the rock and break both my ankles. Nope, not gonna risk it--TAKE.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm so hesitant, overthinking every move that seems just a little "sketchy," moving slow and overly-cautious, clenching my eyes and waiting for the worst. Any move where I need to be even a little dynamic, or can't have my feet directly under me, my confidence vanishes without warning, thoughts of falling in the worst way possible uncontrollably flashing through my head. I'm climbing sloppily, over gripping, my feet are slipping, until complete panic sets in. I can't control my breathing, I'm too pumped to clip, and I have it in my head that falling just isn't an option. Quickdraws become my favorite clipping jugs. Relieved that I'm "no longer in danger" but frustrated with myself for letting fear hold me back, yet again. I've climbed V10 highball boulders for Pete's sake, why am I taking on 5.12a??</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not only did I 'take' in the middle of this route, I couldn't even finish it. I left my draws, got lowered and didn't climb for the rest of the day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm afraid of falling. Obviously.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm not worried I'll hit the ground, that's not it. I hit the ground bouldering pretty often, actually 100% of the time. So what is it?? What is paralyzing me and holding me back so drastically?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I posed this question on my Facebook page and received some insightful and entertaining replies. I know I shouldn't be surprised, but it felt great to know that I was definitely not alone. A lot of the feedback stated that the fear comes and goes, there are good days and bad days, and a few practice whips will put me right back in the game. I decided to post some of my favorites below.</span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mike</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> I think it has something to do with gravity</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Landen</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> once a rope is attached to me, I look like I have Parkinson's.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Andrea DiGiulian</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> I'm afraid of Sasha falling all the time!!</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Claire</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> Yes falling is SCARY!!!! Take a small amount of Xanax you'll be fine</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Sean</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> Everytime i tie in it's like Ive forgotten how to climb.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Alton</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> I have MAJOR issues with as well. And yet we can highball comfortably in Bishop? Whats our deal?!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>Michael</b> dive into something that requires you to think more about the moves than anything else. that's where fall consequences take a back seat. get psyched on something and it'll dissipate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>John</b> Yes. The fear can swell up and make your legs Elvis, make you hold your breath. That weakens your strength, turns out not just your lungs need oxygen. The mental struggle is what all climbers have. Whether it's a climber on a 5/8 to a climber on a 5/15, to help control your fear. You can train your body and make it stronger than you have ever been. The fear can still grab you and turn you mushy. Calmness in the face of adversity, is a great asset. Self confidence is a asset. You need to have a swagger. Eventually you can will yourself past it. Trust the skill of your belayer. Trust the gear. Try not to think about the bolts in the rock. My Coach John Myrick would say, do you need a straw? Why. So you can suck it up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>Brent</b> I once hated falling!Pumped as shit and chicken winging like crazy just to hang on and not fall. Machine gun "takes" (take take take take take!!!) one foot above my last clip. Lol</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Now days, mostly laughter with a huge sigh of relief follows. Oh yea, and a smile! It's only bc we lose sight of the moment and start think about the future. Which you have no control over. We "expect" something. The best and least scary ones come when an unexpected foot blows or a hold breaks. Nothing you can "control" there. Silly boulder-ers. Climb to the top, slap the chains, and "WHIP IT, WHIP IT GOOD"!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Oh and trust your knot before you leave the ground! Derrr.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mary</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> I was terrified for a really long time, but that's because I would stop and overthink a certain move and wouldn't continue if I thought I would fall. It got to a point where I wouldn't lead a 5.7 when I consistently could toprope 11+. It definitely is a mental issue that you can't let control you.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Justin</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> It happened to me so much when I started sport climbing. Something that helped me was to get on stuff that was harder than I could really climb. You know you're gunna fall and you just work on when and how. If it's falling at the crux it just helps cause I'll fall over and over again and gradually you are a little more confident in falling. You got this, the hard part for you will be finding routes outside your grade. ;)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>Jennifer</b> It's not the fear of falling it's the mistrust between you and your equipment. Or plummeting to your death. I just experienced an Alex Honnold moment, as I like to call it, last weekend. My boyfriend told me to sing to myself. So I did! I started singing Miley Cyrus We can Do What We Want To because it was a running joke with my friends while we were all on Alaskan adventure. I was able to calm my nerves and climb my first 5.9 and come 6ft from completing my first 5.10b. It was amazing!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>Colin</b> Alex - This same thing is happening to me. The weird thing is that I used to be able push myself until I fell. It scared me to fall of course but it wasn't a huge deal. Now suddenly, for what reason I don't know, I've dropped two grades off my norm this year and have bailed off several climbs I normally would try and push through because I'm terrified that I'm going to fall. Please share any insight you come across. And thank you for sharing your fears for the rest of us to see we're not the only ones.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>Savannah</b> Yes. We are afraid of the consequences from falling, at least that's what I am afraid of. I often fear that something will happen like my leg getting stuck behind the rope or I slam into the wall, etc. I don't think I fear falling... I just fear what could happen if it were to go wrong. Fear of the unknown is such a bitch... It affects all aspects of my life! I guess it's one of those things you have to learn to just let go of... Know that whatever happens happens for a reason.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As you can see, I got some pretty funny ones, and am grateful for the helpful ones. So many people validated my fears and offered advice. I was also gaining more insights into my own head by reading the explanations of others. Honestly, I've been so lucky to have never taken a really bad fall. My fear was purely mental, and my hesitant climbing was making everything worse. Second guessing my capabilities could cause an even more dangerous fall.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I figured I'd try again. I went back up to the crag. I was so determined not to be afraid. My plan was to practice falling and feign confidence; which is usually my advice to pretty much everyone who asks: act like a badass. Even if you don't feel like one, fake it. Eventually if you fake it long enough you'll start to believe it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I warmed up on a climb in the 5.11 range, got about six clips up, made a few more moves, and pressed away from the wall. I fell about a whopping four feet. Pulled back on, went a few moves higher this time, and same thing--another mellow, soft little fall. I did this four or five times, each time I climbed a little higher and fell a little further. I was starting to feel pretty good about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I got on that same 12a that I 'took' on. I feigned my confidence the entire way up that thing, punching through the moves, not even thinking twice about what <i>might</i> happen if I pitched off, and I soon found myself clipping the chains.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Time to test this theory on something harder! I chose an exposed arete with an overhanging crux and a tenuous finish. I made my way up to the crux and went for it, with gusto, falling multiple times, and not little falls, either! Powering through, I found myself clipping the chains on this one as well, and even though I didn't send, I felt relieved and proud to have pushed through this mental block I've been having with sport climbing for the past few months. Today was the first day I felt like a rock climber in a long time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wasn't expecting my "results" to completely 180, and I'm still not. Of course I know there'll be good days and bad days, and some days I'll be terrified again. But to have just one day where I felt normal again has made this whole thing worth it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thanks to everyone who posted for making me feel human, sharing your stories, giving advice, and making me laugh.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Good luck!</span></div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-10569186048162971622014-06-11T02:45:00.000-05:002014-06-11T02:51:32.333-05:00Vail 2014<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Vail happened. Yes, I was there, I competed, and I tried to try hard. My heart wanted it, but my body didn't feel like cooperating. On Friday I ended up in 26th place, the worst I've placed, ever. And I don't know why.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif;">To some people it may have looked like I didn't care. Those who know me, know I hide behind humor. Was I upset? Frustrated? Angry? Sad? Embarrassed? Of course, who wouldn't be? When you commit any part of your life and self to something and it doesn't work out, of course you'd be upset. Did I cry? You bet. Did I throw something? Yup. Did anyone see me do these things? No. That doesn't mean they didn't happen. On the public stage I kept it together (somewhat) smiling and chatting with the judges, but also throwing my hands up in frustration when I couldn't do something I know I'm physically capable of. Again--who wouldn't be frustrated?</span></div>
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But why? Why couldn't I do those climbs? The ones I did do, why did it takes so many tries? That's how competition climbing goes I guess. I don't know. I keep thinking of a hundred possible reasons: Was it the altitude? Did I drink enough water? Did I sleep enough? Eat enough? Was it the five hours in iso? Am I about to be on the rag? (Sorry dudes.) All possible reasons, I suppose, but why make excuses? It's over now. <a href="http://neverstopexploring.com/2014/06/05/alex-johnson-competition-training-mountain-athletics/" target="_blank">I did everything right </a>during the six weeks leading up to Friday. I changed my diet, I went to LA and trained on plastic, campused, did 4x4s, ran, lifted weights. Obviously I took this event seriously and to think otherwise would be ignorant. </div>
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I act like I don't care because it doesn't hurt as much.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">That's as high as I got on that boulder...</span></div>
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I know I sound melodramatic, but it's hard not to think of the weekend as a complete bust. You spend all that money traveling for what, twenty-five minutes of climbing? Ahhh! Anyway.</div>
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Of <i>course </i>I loved seeing everyone, and had a great time hanging out with my friends. They're funny! My consolation prize was commentating finals, which I really enjoy, and some of the performances in finals were insane! Little Megan Mascarenas put up a great fight representing as the only American in finals, and that was exciting.</div>
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In the end, yeah I was bummed, duh. But it's just another climbing comp, right? And 26th is better than 27th... And hopefully some people still think I'm cool.</div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-32464456376030885912014-05-08T22:04:00.000-05:002014-05-08T22:05:13.987-05:00The Big Move<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Newsflash: I moved to Las Vegas!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Actually this is probably old news to most of you. But I absolutely love living here, for countless reasons. This year so far has been the busiest of my life, and it looks like it's only getting busier. Here's what I've been up to the last few weeks:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">March 27th: I filmed my "Birthday Challenge" with <a href="http://rvproj.com/" target="_blank">The RV Project</a>. I was the guinea pig for the first episode. My challenge was to climb 25 sport pitches, and any number of boulder problems adding up to 25 stars. (Climbs aren't just graded on difficulty, they're also graded on quality, i.e. the star system. Usually the highest honor a world class line can achieve in most guidebooks is four stars, in the Vegas guidebook the maximum is three.) It was a long day in a tight corridor filled with people, but I was able to crush out 25 routes in about seven or eight hours, and just barely had enough gas to get 25 stars. My birthday challenge will be their first episode, coming out soon!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">April 3rd: After my epic day of endurance training, I decided to test out my fitness at USA Climbing's SCS Nationals at <a href="http://senderoneclimbing.com/" target="_blank">Sender One</a> in LA. Yeah, that tanked, haha. I ended up in an impressive 20th place, actually five places better than my qualifying performance at ABS Nationals in February...hmm. Eh, well, it was a blast to hang out with the girls and climb on that pretty ice cream cone wall.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After the event I got to check out the <a href="http://www.evolvesports.com/" target="_blank">Evolv Sports</a> headquarters and even try my hand at making a climbing shoe. I'm pretty sure it went straight to the trash, and if not, I apologize to whomever gets it. Making shoes is HARD!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was a good time anyway. I even got to rock climb and surf before coming home to Vegas! And then I was onto the next chapter of my travels this year...</span></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-50175529098876425772014-03-23T18:40:00.003-05:002014-03-23T18:46:02.646-05:00The Best V9 I've Ever Done<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What I meant was the <i>five</i> best V9's I've ever done. These are the climbs I can't stop thinking about. Personally, V9 is my favorite grade in bouldering. Firstly because I have a thing for odd numbers. Secondly, V9 is the level at which I can usually expect success, but have to try hard to achieve it. Not my limit, but challenging nonetheless. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I believe I can go anywhere in the world and climb a V9. Except Fontainebleau, I couldn't climb shit there.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> I don't know, I just love V9's. They're the perfect grade. Anyway, here are my favorite V9's of all-time!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. "Luminance" Bishop, California</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Huge, beautiful granite block sitting on the east side of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Beginning on an obvious start, overhanging with friendly holds, consistently difficult, tall, committing and exciting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. "Molunk" Brione Switzerland</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Perfect granite edges spaced perfectly apart on gorgeous stone with a flat landing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. "Tilt Shift" Red Rocks, Nevada</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A tall, free-standing boulder on a red and tan cliffside yielding sandstone rails with a physically challenging, technical intro section leading up to a foot-cutting dyno and a heady mantle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4. "Heart of Darkness" Yosemite Valley, California</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Three huge moves between Yosemite granite edges. (Climber: Dave Mason.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5. "Nine Lives" Chattanooga, Tennessee</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A long, power-endurance climb starting on a jug, moving through crimpy sandstone rails with a middle deadpoint and a casual top-out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There you have it; my most beloved climbs at the V9 level. I'm open to suggestions of honorable mentions, I'm always looking to fatten up this list...</span></div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-24973842175208552852014-03-22T20:08:00.004-05:002014-03-22T20:08:41.650-05:00The End<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It looks like the season of #siegingtheswarm is over in Bishop. I'm watching the weather from Vegas and keeping my fingers crossed for a random cold front to roll through, but as of now I have emotionally checked out. It really wore on me to be so close to sending, and then gradually do worse and worse on it each day that went by. My assumption is that I was so focused on trying this one specific project that I got tunnel vision. I worked the same two moves over and over again for two months and didn't try anything else and it ultimately made me weaker. There were two days where I fell off after the crux; I was doing it! I should have sent! And every time after that I walked up there I felt pressured and anxious that I would blow it or feel off. I got in my own head and psyched myself out. No bueno! I've learned so much through this process. I'm going to have fun climbing again, enjoy living in Las Vegas, maybe train a little, and go back in the fall and give her hell.</span></div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-90682769164726751412014-02-26T21:00:00.001-06:002014-02-26T23:57:14.005-06:00Failure<div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Disclaimer: The following is not positive. It's honest.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I failed today. What else is new, right? It's rock climbing, all we do is fall. Take this as you will but I'm not used to failing. This is my first time projecting something, mostly because I'm impatient. When I want something I want it immediately, anyone who knows me will tell you that. This climb eludes me. I can't have it immediately.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm learning a lot through this process, and when I say "I failed" I don't mean physically, because I felt strong today. It was all in my head. I lost my mental game and it shut me out. I used to walk up to this climb ad feel relaxed, refreshed and calm. Now I walk up feeling anxious and overthinking moves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Time feels like it's fighting against me. I've been in Bishop for over six weeks yet I've had only nine days on the boulder. I keep having to leave town. I come back and get one or two climbing days and then I have to leave again. My season here has been so interrupted I feel like I need to make every single attempt count and when I can't do that I lose it emotionally, I get angry. This climb was something I was initially so inspired by, and excited about and now it's the biggest frustration in my life. Boo hoo, right? Poor pro climber living the life can't get up their boulder problem. But it's more than that. I've invested everything I am in this. It's not "just rock climbing" anymore. It means something to me I can't describe. And failing hurts.</span></div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-66140490353721220242014-02-04T22:37:00.002-06:002014-02-04T22:38:41.528-06:00Thanks<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From today.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"I just pulled up to the parking area. I'm about to head up to try but I feel like I need to get this out now: I have this swelling sense of pride, happiness, and gratitude for so much right now. I feel so supported, by my friends, the community, my sponsors. It's like I have an army of people up there with me even when I'm there alone. It's an amazing feeling that I've never really felt before. I mean, I kind of get it with competitions, but then the weekend is over, and that's it. This is different. This has been weeks of positive notes, comments and messages; people walking up there with me just so I have some company. My sponsors have been even more supportive than usual, J-Tree made #SiegingTheSwarm stickers, Gnarly made goody bags, Nicros overnighted me PumpRocks when I was feeling weak, Goal Zero hooked me up with a new battery for my rig, and I wouldn't even be here right now without Organic and, of course, The North Face. It's so hard to explain. I feel like Michael Phelps, or Shaun White. Like the whole world is watching and rooting for me as I go into finals at the Olympics. Of course I want to do this climb for me, but now I want to do it for all of you too. Thanks for all the extra motivation, everyone."</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ewZC1D8Ejb7p61v_nYaaohr8DRGogPpnHLXfSTxMqZriReI-90R9J1bW3EqClHTlkscqo-EeUB3MwzpFTaUS_hrLFSAr_2zvKarENAEWwHNmhFwDZIeDsVclyCrXDRQA5Rd7bD8r29Y/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ewZC1D8Ejb7p61v_nYaaohr8DRGogPpnHLXfSTxMqZriReI-90R9J1bW3EqClHTlkscqo-EeUB3MwzpFTaUS_hrLFSAr_2zvKarENAEWwHNmhFwDZIeDsVclyCrXDRQA5Rd7bD8r29Y/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">on the way</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">my new lucky charm from Spenser and Vikki @thervproject</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#sts sticker</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4E7eVIIxM0IOLflee-NIp6f2AF4cp51eVVWGJOmRmbIiDmky6nl_bQFoq640Zc7oDORAWBS8mNTkniMGas9q8qSL971FUByl00_-M_E5JC49JTrEBz7rPlKH7EDsrl9Nsc8HkH7PfdwU/s1600/Screenshot+2014-02-04+20.21.52.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4E7eVIIxM0IOLflee-NIp6f2AF4cp51eVVWGJOmRmbIiDmky6nl_bQFoq640Zc7oDORAWBS8mNTkniMGas9q8qSL971FUByl00_-M_E5JC49JTrEBz7rPlKH7EDsrl9Nsc8HkH7PfdwU/s1600/Screenshot+2014-02-04+20.21.52.png" height="283" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">training on the PumpRocks</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGWkSD_OpGPpcuMFkVjgpYBk5CluEn2_WLnLg7AqBSpZHUWY4bI0WU7QTrEN80q9cU-LkvG8XWmOuxrEFBFYgyHNzP8IzQ824FMNOy133qFZOEKMXY9Q8L2-N45nXqHP7Zv3YxfevxtA/s1600/Screenshot+2014-02-04+20.22.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGWkSD_OpGPpcuMFkVjgpYBk5CluEn2_WLnLg7AqBSpZHUWY4bI0WU7QTrEN80q9cU-LkvG8XWmOuxrEFBFYgyHNzP8IzQ824FMNOy133qFZOEKMXY9Q8L2-N45nXqHP7Zv3YxfevxtA/s1600/Screenshot+2014-02-04+20.22.20.png" height="265" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">40% off training fuel</span></div>
<br />Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-81646931048960370332014-01-19T23:21:00.003-06:002014-01-19T23:21:49.137-06:00Day 4<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm sitting under the boulder right now writing this, thinking not so positive thoughts. It just feels so hard today. Going into this, I knew I would have good days and bad days, but with the way progress was being made so quickly I sort of thought I'd just do it. I thought I would do it today. Instead I saw a regression. I'm frustrated I walked all the way up here. I can't waste precious skin on worthless attempts. The second move is the crux. I've done it. More than once. Today I wasn't even close.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I started out positive, my body felt alright, my skin was good. I was talking to myself before pulling on each time, "You can do this. You can do this." And then I failed miserably, over and over again, on the jump, coming off screaming in anger sometimes. Of course it felt good to scream. Did it make me get any higher? No.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With some mild form of last-ditch optimism I put my shoes on one last time and as I was grabbing the start holds thought, "What are you doing? You can't do this today." And that was that. It was over. I let go of the start holds, sat down, took my shoes off and packed up. Even if physically I could have done the climb today, mentally I had already failed. I had defeated myself.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I can get to the top of this, but anger, frustration and doubt are not going to get me there.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I know better.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I can not let myself be the reason for defeat.</span></div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-78170531373272078902014-01-14T22:25:00.000-06:002014-01-19T23:10:14.999-06:00I Have Arrived.<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's hard to explain the feeling I get stepping out of the trailer in the morning and into the Kmart parking lot and seeing Mt. Basin first thing. Calming seems to be a perfectly cliched way of putting it. But I think it's something more than that. Like it instills this fire in me. Passion maybe? Like I'm here for a reason. I finally have direction.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My brother drove out to California with me to climb and fish for a few days, but he has since flown home and I am here alone. There's a sort of sanctuary in the solitude. I'm sure I'll get lonely at some point, but it's Bishop... There's always someone around.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I enjoy it; life on the road alone. I'm on my own schedule and I go to whatever boulder tickles my fancy at any particular moment.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Right now, though, there's really only one boulder I feel like going to. I've been unexpectedly pleased with how it's been going, especially after losing fitness to rainy days in Font and being stuck in the car for three days.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Of course I was apprehensive towards it. But the last two days have changed that for me. Partly because I did better on it than I was expecting, but also because of this (here we go again) *calming* sensation I have being here.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghj5Ke45yhusRDIFfi3T0dO2sXC9tJGYbL1WDNcgJi0uO5K4s519iDm0lEARg_SgAHYhFibX_s29EFyhp0ypo6f_BYk8quBGMoW3jGFZ0zjJoXnc2nbU5at35bGpBbi0a5LQiYO9MpbwM/s1600/2014-01-12+10.26.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghj5Ke45yhusRDIFfi3T0dO2sXC9tJGYbL1WDNcgJi0uO5K4s519iDm0lEARg_SgAHYhFibX_s29EFyhp0ypo6f_BYk8quBGMoW3jGFZ0zjJoXnc2nbU5at35bGpBbi0a5LQiYO9MpbwM/s320/2014-01-12+10.26.37.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've been obsessing over this one climb all year and now I'm finally here. I can relax. All I have to do is do it!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I may not be the strongest I've ever been, but I'm so passionate about these eight moves on perfect patina that I think my motivation will be a huge factor in carrying me however far I get up this thing.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It sounds crazy that something so obscure can feel so helplessly all- encompassing. Why it matters I cannot express in words.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I know I'm going to have good days and bad days. I know I'm going to bleed and scream and maybe even cry. But I know that here, in my sweatpants in my 1950s trailer in the Kmart parking lot surrounded by truckers writing by lantern-light with my BuddyHeater going, is exactly where I want to be.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I don't feel lost anymore.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFl6qY-54KvWZn-_Mw-DQJpKKigavBNSRDEGg2DIj0gMUo1qOY0mXIANzrBtF7I5_eMMw3RiAzLJ3r1spuxkq_FCgrCLFI8ApVpm9-mc1WCp7mx0DwzZ_liqJGhvS3OB5uvQjMMytYHI/s1600/2014-01-13+20.15.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFl6qY-54KvWZn-_Mw-DQJpKKigavBNSRDEGg2DIj0gMUo1qOY0mXIANzrBtF7I5_eMMw3RiAzLJ3r1spuxkq_FCgrCLFI8ApVpm9-mc1WCp7mx0DwzZ_liqJGhvS3OB5uvQjMMytYHI/s320/2014-01-13+20.15.58.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-19973058796452601172013-12-28T07:55:00.001-06:002013-12-29T18:11:36.921-06:00The Art of Feeling Stuck<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">H</span>ere I am in one of the most beautiful, famous climbing areas in the world, Fontainebleau, France, and I don't even want to go climbing. What is wrong with me?</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I can't shake the feeling that I want to be somewhere else. Actually I've felt this way for the last twelve months.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I feel stuck.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Why do I feel like I'm wasting time? Precious time. I'm not going to be twenty-four forever. What am I doing in all these places when I know I want to be somewhere else?</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I think a lot of it had to do with me signing a lease, my first paid-for home base since 2009. That was the beginning of me feeling stuck. It felt nice to have a bedroom, and a kitchen, but no matter where I wanted to go, I never felt like I could go for long. I always felt like I had to return at around the six week mark, because why would you pay for a place to live if you weren't actually going to live in it?</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This most definitely, absolutely, does NOT mean that I want to live the #TrailerLife for the rest of eternity. No, I definitely want a place somewhere. But this time, geographically, I think I'm going to make a better choice. But I have some things to do first.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I lost myself a little bit this year, as a climber and as a person. I wanted to do a climb, and it wasn't the right time, I had to wait for winter. I couldn't go, but I didn't want to stay. My relationship to climbing changed. It wasn't fun anymore, it was a chore. So I didn't climb much over the summer, and I sort of let myself go. When fall came and I decided I loved climbing again and it was time to get back in shape, I was kinda chubby (for climbing standards. And me standards.) I had a hard time getting back in shape. But my focus was stemming from thoughts of my project, and I worked hard, knowing I to need to be the strongest I've ever been to do this climb. I completed seven weeks of a nine-week training program, and felt like me again! But I still wasn't heading in the right direction. I went the opposite way, first to the Southeast. It's almost like I'm running from it; I'm intimidated by it. So I did the ultimate flee and left the country.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm not saying I haven't appreciated my time in Europe, of course I have. It's just felt more like... killing time. The entire last year, no matter where I've been, I've felt like I was just killing time, desperately wishing I could be working this climb, but it wasn't the right season. I haven't been able to try my hardest, or start any other serious projects, because my heart has been elsewhere, on a project farther away.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I got this idea in my head that I wanted to do a boulder, and since this idea's conception, I've only been distracted by it. It sounds like the ultimate cliche, I know, but I've become obsessed. It's all I think about, and I regularly dream about it. None of the climbing areas I've been to in the last eight months have been fulfilling. Of course it's been fun! And I've climbed a lot of incredible lines, and even done some hard things. I just can't focus on anything.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The scariest part about it all is now people know about it. I have been vocal about wanting to work on this climb, I've told people and sponsors. Me, I have put all this extra pressure on myself to succeed.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What if I fail?</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Trust me, I'm the first one to admit that climbing is 90% failure. I mean look at KJ and TC, five years in on The Dawn Wall, and Angie three years in on Freaks. It's called projecting for a reason! Who cares if I spend months working it and don't do it?</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But this one is different. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's become less about disappointing myself. Now there are other people, and companies involved. I <i>need</i> to do it for me. I <i>want</i> to do it for them.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If nobody knew I was working on it, nobody would know if I couldn't do it. But now if I fail, people will know. And that scares the shit out of me.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why I've been feeling trapped.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I want to do this climb and I'm afraid to fail.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The thing I want to do the most I'm running away from.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I come home from Europe in a week and head straight out to this project. I feel this need to be there, working on it, but I'm also very intimidated. I guess we'll see what happens.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Welcome to the art of feeling stuck.</span></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-47027894402540431292013-12-22T19:05:00.002-06:002013-12-22T19:05:27.259-06:00Bonjour!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">W</span>e have departed the beautiful sunny valleys of Ticino, Switzerland and have entered the rainy lands of Fontainebleau, France! The end of our Swiss trip was fun indeed, but secretly... I prefer sandstone to granite. Please don't tell Yosemite.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCq8ycwhgoN8n5bHWHXZQe9fARrS8yC5yfcZCvpjIn9JAvYaz1gAM5ZmC1RTqtCttE1lkTa0IFVOMDOWT8wwe0Ksz3DQJn2lnZR4fv47KoSVLg8E7rSgPIwF0N33EcBTm5XBbNf_0_Ik/s1600/1476378_691114107589536_432920338_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCq8ycwhgoN8n5bHWHXZQe9fARrS8yC5yfcZCvpjIn9JAvYaz1gAM5ZmC1RTqtCttE1lkTa0IFVOMDOWT8wwe0Ksz3DQJn2lnZR4fv47KoSVLg8E7rSgPIwF0N33EcBTm5XBbNf_0_Ik/s320/1476378_691114107589536_432920338_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Sasha Turrentine in Chironico</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWUox2ocaRZRUH-2M3eEp0NqUqKz6FaqpslE_htrTqmcCVtlxcw_Pe5Id5EeLQ8am0zKobPcoAP1XxvzYi-O_KpP0FNyYVe8ukupO-TpJUmB7HXgJqk-ieQ8aA7lyx-SigVeQFRdRX9ag/s1600/1483257_692741247426822_1664955469_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWUox2ocaRZRUH-2M3eEp0NqUqKz6FaqpslE_htrTqmcCVtlxcw_Pe5Id5EeLQ8am0zKobPcoAP1XxvzYi-O_KpP0FNyYVe8ukupO-TpJUmB7HXgJqk-ieQ8aA7lyx-SigVeQFRdRX9ag/s320/1483257_692741247426822_1664955469_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> An incredible V8 called, "Made in Norway"</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABsdRDyLYmYwF3dw7YYgj_CfCbXrde-MWXfE-D87HtEM9r5yMvizOHB2ebZwyCVCSUvqmeeOvhbRc-axImyHISobkLoVl98wOppQ-lc3j3HW1Ve3K8t_3nqGsQbK8tMuSO5nZcTuMbGk/s1600/1497637_686566514710962_1543503542_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABsdRDyLYmYwF3dw7YYgj_CfCbXrde-MWXfE-D87HtEM9r5yMvizOHB2ebZwyCVCSUvqmeeOvhbRc-axImyHISobkLoVl98wOppQ-lc3j3HW1Ve3K8t_3nqGsQbK8tMuSO5nZcTuMbGk/s320/1497637_686566514710962_1543503542_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the most amazing climbs I've ever done, "Molunk" V9</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yesterday I climbed in Font for the very first time in my life! It was incredible! The goal here is to climb ten boulders a day, doesn't matter the "difficulty level," which is completely arbitrary here anyway. The boulders are beautiful and it's like running around a playground. So much to do! And I caved and bought the 7's + 8's guidebook so I'm not randomly trying to get off the ground on what I didn't know was a classic V10, with Frenchmen hiding in the bushes laughing, watching me fail.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipfXZJIpLVgmCzFomu1qbeg_Ch02BWRATMP7Lchxb-MqpwxuB_4FVFelWyqWKfiAsoj_08LSFtAGuQh1lHPd-JiqsqEwxiP_CD0bfbeUYTBHE2BGsYE1mTyQhw1XFuhHkVWwuM2-UfscQ/s1600/1484214_693797133987900_222212206_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipfXZJIpLVgmCzFomu1qbeg_Ch02BWRATMP7Lchxb-MqpwxuB_4FVFelWyqWKfiAsoj_08LSFtAGuQh1lHPd-JiqsqEwxiP_CD0bfbeUYTBHE2BGsYE1mTyQhw1XFuhHkVWwuM2-UfscQ/s320/1484214_693797133987900_222212206_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This amazing V3 I couldn't do...</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's supposed to rain for the next few days, but hopefully the weather clears up, because I'd like to learn how to rock climb before I head home. Christmas and New Year's Eve will be spent in Paris!!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-27469617915159697632013-12-02T16:16:00.001-06:002013-12-02T16:16:34.635-06:00Switzerland
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<div class="MsoNormal">
I thought it would be longer before I returned to Europe,
after my experiences in 2011, which were recently exposed in a Rock and Ice
article, where I battled loneliness, failure and depression, swearing to myself
rashly that I’d never go back.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Maybe the difference this time is I’m not alone; I brought a
piece of home with me, in someone who’s known me for over a decade, since I was
a gangly, brace-faced pre-teen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Or maybe it’s the entirely different curriculum I’m
following. My last visit was dedicated to competing on the World Cup Circuit,
to plastic and rankings. This time I’m in Europe solely for the pleasure of
rock climbing, no judges, no points. No real aspirations, honestly, aside from
just spending time climbing in an area I’ve never been before.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of course being here doesn’t come without some anxiety, even
though I’m in a completely dissimilar situation from last time. But each day
that goes by, I’m reminded that I’m here because I chose to be, because want to
be, because I love climbing. And the climbing in Switzerland doesn’t suck.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s so beautiful here. We’re in the mountain town of Claro,
surrounded by towering white peaks. We go out in the late mornings, after the
frost has burned off, and spend the day at either Cresciano or Chironico, two
different areas within just twenty minutes of driving. It’s cold, and sometimes
starting up is hard, but if we can get good and warm it’s worth it to feel the
gratifying slap of sticking to a hold, otherwise un-stick-to-able in higher
temperatures.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some of the climbs here remind me of The Valley, in the way
that they’re proud, granite lines, with slightly technical face climbing. As
Yosemite is the only other place I’ve climbed on granite in the woods, it’s
easy to seek out similarities. Of course, there are characteristics of Colorado
bouldering that present themselves here as well. But to be fair to the area, it
is its own. It really is different from anywhere I’ve been, but what place
isn’t? It has its own qualities, style, scene. Like all areas, there are lines
that are gems and lines that are mediocre. The most exciting aspect of
Switzerland for me is that it’s new. Everything is new, and therefore by nature
is guaranteed to be at least somewhat exciting.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When the sun goes below the mountains and our fingers,
freezing, cease to grip holds we head home, knowing, gratefully, that the cabin
in which we’re staying will be toasty, a fire already lit by the kind old man
and his wife from whom we’re renting. They spoil us.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Our little place is filled with Christmas
sweaters and advent calendars, chocolate and wine, movies and laugher. It’s
cozy and friendly and for the time being, home.</span><!--EndFragment-->
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-41397342312864259062013-10-21T22:37:00.000-05:002013-10-21T22:41:35.384-05:00Portland: Comp & Clinics<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The Portland Boulder Rally.</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How I know I'm a performer.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It had been a while since I competed, especially against a field this incredibly stacked to the teens with super strong ladies. I was feeling quite "mehh" during the redpoint round, and just couldn't make my body execute in the way I know it can. I began shaking in my boots a little when time started winding down, and I knew I didn't have enough points to get into finals.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That's the thing about redpoint competitions... You know exactly what everyone else is doing. These types of events are probably more nerve-wracking than onsight comps where you know nothing. With redpoints you know what you have to do to advance, and if it's not happening--things get stressful.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's also hard to climb with your whole group of friends in a redpoint comp, when your friends are Puccio and Angie Payne. Knocks the confidence a little. We all tried the group thing for the first half hour, and then realized it was NOT the strategy, and our group split fast.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were two problems that had eluded me the entire three hours. I had watched a dozen girls do them in the first thirty minutes of the comp and just couldn't seem to pull them off.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When the announcement came on that there was only five minutes remaining in the round, I put my scorecard in the pile and waited for my name to be called. When it was my turn, I walked up to the "pink" problem, took a deep breath and said aloud, "Ok. Climb like you know how to f*&%ing climb!" And I executed. While topping out, I whispered, "One down, one to go." Came down and put my card back into the pile for the "green" problem that was right next to it. With a minute left my name was called. I walked up to the start and said "One more, baby, come on!" I felt exhausted, I was so spent. After three hours of climbing, whether I made finals or not came down to this boulder. I stuck the move I that had evaded me, but with six moves left til I was on top, I began to chicken wing. We've all done it, you get to that point where you're so pumped your muscles begin to fail. I fought hard, and chickenwinged my way up that damn boulder and when I was standing on top I straight up celebrated with a loud "woohoo!"</span></div>
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<i>Photo by Tiffany Hensley</i></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The redpoint round ended and I turned in my scorecard, still not confident I'd even qualify for finals. I secured a backup plan--commentating, and headed to lunch, the crew reunited after the heat of the competition was over. It was a stressful lunch until I got a group text message saying "Congratulations! You are receiving this message because you have qualified for finals at the Portland Boulder Rally! Please show up at..." I had qualified in the 6th, and final, place. I sighed a breath of relief. We had a few hours to rest up, and then--game time.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Because I felt so off during qualifiers, before the finals I put a little <a href="http://gognarly.com/" target="_blank">Gnarly</a> pick-me-up energy booster in my drink and crossed my fingers that my fatigue and previous chickenwinging wouldn't resurface.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Re-warming up in isolation I still felt pretty bad. But as soon as I went out and the lights and all the eyes in the building were on me... I turned it on. Something about the pressure of the situation, and having people cheering for me... it makes me WANT to show them what I can do. The crowd was psyched, they were so supportive, it was the loudest crowd I've ever heard and I didn't want to let them down. I love the crowd, and interacting with them makes me feel confident. I performed. I performed my way up into third place! I tied with Nina Williams, and instead of combining 3rd and 4th place's prize money, then splitting it-- the event organizers just raised the entire purse!! We both got 3rd place's winnings! I thought that was very, very cool. You can bet I'll be back next year. Let's hope Puccio doesn't show up so it's a fair fight. :)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>PCI Clinics</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The day after the event, about a dozen pro's stuck around to teach clinics to a bunch of the younger competitors. Personally, I had a two hour private in the morning with Lauren, who has made significant progress since we worked together last year after the comp. It was great so see how far she's come! Then we had our two hour group clinics with all the pro's, where my group worked on momentum. Following that, Carlo Traversi and I had another hour long semi-private where we really got to break down specific movements. I've done a few clinics with Carlo in the past, and think we work really well together, he's a great teacher. We currently posses the power to help in the sculpting of future generations of climbers. This is huge, and we need to do the best we can to pass the torch.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-78604577093471505902013-09-02T15:01:00.000-05:002013-09-03T10:52:10.168-05:00Lucy<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lucy came out of mock-isolation fully ready. It was PCI Clinic--Tucson, and we were doing a mock-comp in preparation for Regionals the following weekend. There were two boulder problems to choose from for station two, one moderate and one of slightly harder difficulty (one for the younger kids, one for the older kids.) The objective was to set them up in a slightly less nerve-wracking onsight-format and see how they perform under pressure, then give them feedback.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lucy was grouped with the younger half. She came out and easily cruised her problem expecting to rest for her remaining minutes. As she headed back to her chair I stopped her.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Nope, you're going to climb it again," I said. "This time you aren't allowed to bend your arms at all." She looked only a little confused. "Use the movement of your body. Right now you're climbing tense. Relax; twist your shoulders, rotate your hips, pivot on your toes. Tell me if the problem <i>doesn't</i> feel easier." Lucy got back on, twisting, rotating and pivoting her way to the top. It looked beautiful!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Did you feel the difference?" I asked.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"So much!" She exclaimed. And seeing as practice makes perfect, I made her do the climb with straight arms three or four more times before her five minutes were up. In those five minutes her climbing improved exceptionally.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm not writing an article about the next "phenom-wonderkid." This is about a young girl with an eagerness to learn, a desire to get better, and a fierce passion to pursue something she loves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lucy is eleven years old and has been climbing for four years. Not unlike myself, she began climbing in summer camps at her local gym. She was instantly hooked and tried out for her team Rocks and Ropes at her gym in Arizona. She's been competing for four years, and just like all of us-- sees ups and downs in her performances.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So when Lucy first heard about a PCI clinic coming to Tucson she thought, "Are you serious? You mean I get to actually talk to and get advice from pro climbers?! I'm in!!"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lucy has been on her gym's youth climbing team since 2008, and lives in Bisbee, AZ. Her climbing gym is Rocks and Ropes in Tucson and, recently its sister gym, The BLOC, opened in Tucson as well. That means that for the last five years practices have been 100 miles away -- one way. Lucy makes that drive three times per week to continue to stay on the climbing team. Now that's dedication! Even though Lucy has to leave school an hour early to make it to practice on time, she still strives for perfect attendance and straight A's.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing outside to Lucy is more for the experience than it is the send. She's done climbs like <i>Royal Arches</i> in Yosemite Valley, and <i>South Crack</i> on Stately Pleasure Dome in Tuolumne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Catching up with Lucy since her participation in the PCI Clinic at The BLOC, she says she's been able to concentrate on her breathing much more, helping with her focus, sequencing, and fending off the pump. "Since the clinic, I have a whole lot more confidence in myself, and in my climbing."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's working with young climbers like Lucy that makes teaching clinics not only warmly rewarding, but so much fun! I'm excited to check back with Lucy over time to hear about how she's progressed, and hopefully see her out climbing soon!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lucy-- Keep up the great work!! ~AJ</span></div>
Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-43801152881597538142013-08-08T18:01:00.004-05:002013-08-08T19:44:35.875-05:00Recent Media Excitements<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">--Insert awesome self-promotional spray here.--</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">J</span>une/July 2013 issue of<i> Rock and Ice Magazine</i>.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Allow me to summarize: in 2011 I competed on the World Cup Circuit, sucked a lot, lost all my confidence and got depressed. I took some time off, picked back up with climbing (only outside) fell in love with climbing again, started having fun and sent my hardest to date. Also I'm tired of being ostracized for being tall. Like REALLY tired of it.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">A</span>ugust 2013 issue of Denver's 5280 Magazine Feature titled "Built." Comparable to ESPN's "Bodies" including Missy Franklin, Gretchen Bleiler and four other athletes around Colorado. It's an honor to be featured in the same article as those two Olympians!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-64394676277739110662013-08-05T17:38:00.001-05:002013-08-05T17:45:14.122-05:00Psicocomp<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">T</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">he Deep Water Solo Event.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">I</span>'m still sore, and I only climbed twice. Once during the practice round to get the nerves out, and once during the competition. I didn't get any higher the second time. But it was much more fun! After I got eliminated in the first round I was really bummed I didn't get to go again, try to go higher, and take a bigger fall. This type of event may be a new athlete favorite.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leading up to the comp I was cockily unafraid, my ego convincing the rest of me that I was a badass. I missed the first practice round, and heard everyone talking about how scary it was, but only became slightly more apprehensive. Then the nightmares happened.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The night before my first time on the wall, I had nightmares all night long. I was falling from the top and either hitting the bottom of the pool, or missing it entirely and hitting the concrete. I woke up petrified. Showing up at the wall for my first attempt my heart was pounding hard, and as soon as I pulled on my legs started doing that Elvis shake thing. We've all experienced it... I was overgripping and looking down at my landing. I didn't get very high before I was outrageously pumped. I kicked off and shot down to the water and was submerged in less than a second, barely enough time to suck in a breath.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The water was not warm, and it took my breath away. In my minimal experience at this event, I was actually only afraid when I was under the water. It was just so cold it would shock my system and I'd come up gasping, almost hyperventilating, making it difficult to swim to the side. The climbing shoes didn't help either, they don't have the same effect as flippers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My only regret from the weekend was not being able to attend the first practice round where everyone was climbing to the top and then jumping. After that day the routes got much harder... As much fun as I had climbing and falling into the water, I must admit my favorite part of the entire event was getting the robes. The finalists were given robes embroidered with the Psicobloc logo to wear after we got out of the pool, and they were glorious. I felt like a boxer, or an Olympic swimmer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bracket style format made the last couple of rounds super exciting, because of comprable difficulty levels of the finalists, and it turned into more of a race to the top than waiting to see who would fall first.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> From an athlete's perspective, the only thing I would change for next time would be to have only 8 men and 8 women in finals, just to speed things up a little bit, and to allow for the really cool intro bios that had to be nixed due to time. I think it would keep the audience more engaged, too, having more consistent "races", and less distance between where people would fall. And possibly a slightly easier route so climbers could go faster to add more of a "non-climbing spectator-friendly" speed element? I don't know.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All in all, <i>probably</i> the most fun event I've ever had the pleasure of participating in. I can't wait for the next one, so I can get my ass in shape and get it a little higher up that wall. For 2014 I also want to see a Mike Doyle appearance. And I absolutely adore my robe!</span><br />
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28356778271299634.post-74195917890586183072013-07-29T21:46:00.000-05:002013-07-30T01:00:59.763-05:00The China Experience<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">I</span> swore to myself that I
would never go back. The last time I was in China was July of 2009. It was for
the World Championships in Xining, and situations were dire.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I was preparing the
documents for my visa, hunger, pollution, chicken feet and bumper to bumper
traffic began swirling around in my memory. Nevertheless I willed myself to get on the
plane, on my second attempt at taking the bus to the airport at 5am. (My first
attempt was 24 hours too early.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I arrived in Shanghai
surprisingly exhausted. My eye mask and ear plugs worked wonderful magic on the overnight flight, but
my ambien had worn off a little too early. I was a zombie.</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That first night I was taken
to an amazing Mexican restaurant with a handful of higher-ups from The North Face, where, like an asshole, I fell asleep at the
dinner table. Eventually,
though, I came to realize that people here are quite fond of their catnaps, and
fall asleep in public all the time. As the trip went on I began to notice this frequently, and felt slightly less bad.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My first full day I went
climbing at a local gym and gave an impromptu interview, Q and A, and mini
clinic. Luckily I can think quick on my feet!</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day was my big
presentation at the China headquarters office. I was excited; I had worked hard
preparing (what I think was) a funny and entertaining slide show about my
awesome life, and then showed Two Girls, One Pup. Fritz was a big star. After
the film finished and the floor was opened for questions, “Does Fritz have a
boyfriend?” was the first one I got. “Actually, yes, she’s in a long distance
relationship with a Husky named Oliver.” Giggles erupted throughout the room. I
was pleased enough.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Travel to the Asia Outdoor
Trade Show in Nanjing the following day was two hours by train. I presented
again at a press conference, and then qualified at the comp; struggle-bus
style. I made finals in third and had to vocally pep-talk myself to
try harder later that night in finals. I was seriously lacking my “grr.”</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMjnV6OlDKVh9BZoWxgCoExJ38kqxaosSDOmx2BrkmAfavzLjchxMzYCDsitTMPsGq7ox2M7aGr7fu5lhSvG3MTY0deHZ47xuLAeRwln8-2ROpTtvYJI3Rqg9EWD9u3aS1QhDe-AYGKJY/s1600/IMG_3758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMjnV6OlDKVh9BZoWxgCoExJ38kqxaosSDOmx2BrkmAfavzLjchxMzYCDsitTMPsGq7ox2M7aGr7fu5lhSvG3MTY0deHZ47xuLAeRwln8-2ROpTtvYJI3Rqg9EWD9u3aS1QhDe-AYGKJY/s320/IMG_3758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Isolation felt like a flattering game of follow the leader. I would do something
significant in my spontaneous warm-up routine and then subtly watch as a few other girls began to do the same thing. When I warm up I pretty much have no clue what I'm doing, and often use ideas from other people, too, but sometimes I felt like Sid from the movie Ice Age when he gets abducted by mini sloths. Gratefully, I wasn’t going to be sacrificed to the fire gods
afterward.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you haven’t seen the
movie (you should), here’s the clip in which I’m referring to:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ishzrAcByx4</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stepped up my game for finals and came
out swinging, flashing, with much difficulty, all four problems and
winning the comp. It felt good to try hard and come out on top. That pretty
much covers the business aspect of the trip I guess. The everyday stuff should be much
more entertaining, as I find the cultural differences quite fascinating. My recounts are obviously very broad generalizations, but much like you'd find in any huge city.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7CvDfu8lFAb0U7HVSg8TCsHxY9ZsBLupr3mWsAkBCuhYqgXMpXsybcqg2rJ_gFIbKjm3Gs9Z9HwhSR2i2ig6MKaSeICwM87-iMbIQGOLwZQ3m5lvZZOHiNM4IOZ6s3-BUvuE6d2qYKhc/s1600/IMG_3855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7CvDfu8lFAb0U7HVSg8TCsHxY9ZsBLupr3mWsAkBCuhYqgXMpXsybcqg2rJ_gFIbKjm3Gs9Z9HwhSR2i2ig6MKaSeICwM87-iMbIQGOLwZQ3m5lvZZOHiNM4IOZ6s3-BUvuE6d2qYKhc/s320/IMG_3855.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">All photos by Alex Zhao</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Something you don’t really
get used to here is constantly being stared at. The traffic and the honking and
the smoking, yes; the staring, not so much. I’ll be honest, I liked it at
first. It’s attention, and who doesn’t like attention? I felt like an Amazonian
goddess, but eventually I began to feel extra-terrestrial. It’s not just
passing glances, but full-on, head turning, look-you-up-and-down,
follow-you-when-you-walk, staring. Not just one passer-by; most of them. It was
exhausting to constantly feel like you are on display.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So I started playing
stare-backsies. It wasn’t very efficient, I just found myself locked into
severe awkward-eye-contact battles for an indeterminable amount of time,
usually with older men, them refusing to look away because I'm so “exotic,”
and me refusing to look away out of Johnson stubbornness. It was arduous, and
truthfully I wasn’t playing hardcore enough. After five seconds I would just
start to giggle.</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Instead, I hardened. I was
good at it; living in Boulder for the last year made me an expert. Warmth and
friendliness isn’t a right there, it’s earned. Drop the warm smile and replace
it with a stone cold stare. Don’t look directly at anybody, just stare straight
ahead. It’s not so much rudeness as it is indifference, (in Boulder it’s
pretension) which is entirely socially acceptable, along with the constant
honking. I started demanding when I walked through the city, though what I was
demanding, I don't even know.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The thing about walking
confidently is you can’t stumble. Then you just have to laugh at yourself for
trying to hard. And eventually if you stand tall enough and walk briskly long
enough you just get a side ache. It all became too much to care about, like the
transportation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Space on the highways is
tight. Where there are three lanes, they make four. Taxi rides are a constant
game of Chicken. Crossing the street is a constant game of Frogger. Which
species to be? Which game to play? Try not to get smushed! It sounds
outrageously dangerous, but you come to learn there’s an <i>almost</i> graceful ebb and flow to all of it. Almost. It goes
right along with personal space: there isn’t much. And I’m a very space-bubbly
person. It made it hard to breathe, but that could just have been the air.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“The smog lay thick and
heavy, like a blanket, over the never-ending city… And something else poetic.”
But seriously, it does. And that<i> is</i>
the best way to describe it. I feel like I should reference all the authors who
have used this metaphor before me, so as not to be a plagiarist, but the list
would be too long. Also, I don’t have time. What does “smog” even mean anyway?
Smelly fog? Stinky Manmade Oppressing Gas? I’ll have to google that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Comparatively, this China experience greatly surpasses the preceding ones. The people I interacted with at The North Face (AZ, Patrick, Jacob, Hu Hao...) were fantastic. And thank God for Matt and Alia, or I'd have been singing the <i>Les Mis</i> classic, "On My Own," to my own personal musical. And I would have starved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Onward to Salt Lake City and the Psicobloc comp.</span></div>
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Alex Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10428041900067282588noreply@blogger.com0